Cumulus Inc.

Overview

Cumulus Inc. has quietly and confidently held its own on Flinders Lane for many, many years now. It remains a tried-and-tested favourite among Melburnians for good reason. With Andrew McConnell's Midas touch, it's hard to go wrong, but Cumulus really gets it right time and time again. A seamless blend of outstanding food and beautiful, intuitive, attentive service makes any lunch or dinner feel special.

With expansive warehouse windows transporting you anywhere from New York's Meatpacking District to the narrow laneways of Paris' Montmartre, the space remains inherently Melbourne, adorned with fine black detailing and an expansive marble bar. And the venue has only got better with time, aging elegantly like a fine wine. It'a a reprieve from the bustle of the city outside, and the comfortable, lived-in feeling that awaits is owing to the countless satisfied diners who have walked through its doors before you.

Allan Doert Eccles (of Cutler, Marion, Emla and Gimlet) serves as the Head Chef nowadays. His dishes are fuss-free, executed effortlessly and source only the finest of local produce to do so. His ethos of prioritising peak season ingredients means there is no need to overcomplicate or overembellish the produce he loves. No stranger to the pure pleasure of a meal at the restaurant, Eccles recalls with fondness one particularly memorable occasion when "the light was streaming in, the vibe was great, and we had the time and headspace to really enjoy the food being cooked by the passionate team in the kitchen."

Menu mainstays include the tuna tartare with goat's curd and green peas, and a slow-roasted lamb shoulder with almonds and red pepper. A stupidly simple tin of anchovies with grilled bread, chilli and lemons really shows that sometimes less is more. Fresh produce shines in dishes such as a zucchini galette with Emmental custard, prawns with garlic butter, swordfish with mussels and chickpeas, and asparagus with mozzarella and pistachio.

Look out for unmissable specials at this CBD hotspot, including $2 Oyster Hour and Harvest Lunch specials. During the Australian Open, the kitchen has extended its snack menu to include an array of Cumulus favourites, ideal for recharging between matches or fuelling up before an evening match. Don't miss the crumbed fish sandwich, the spanner crab toast or the Shark Bay scallops.

A visit to Cumulus remains incomplete — no matter how many times you may have visited in the past — without devouring a few of the sought-after madeleines. Baked to order, they arrive at your table filled with vibrant lemon curd, scenting the air with their sweet steam. They're an absolute delight. Pair them with a coffee or, even better, a glass of champagne.

Cumulus Inc. is a reliable gem in the city's crown. If you are one of the few Melburnians yet to visit, make it a priority. It'll remind you why our city is one of the best food destinations in the world.

Images: Supplied.