Vietnamese Noodle Soups
Chances are you've eaten a few bowls of pho in your time — but that's just the start of Vietnam's vast pool of soup varieties.
Understanding Vietnamese noodle soup is key to understanding Vietnamese culture — the evolution of pho encompasses years of history, divide, regional diversity and cultural influences. From the traditional pho that originated in the north to the Cambodian-influenced soups of the south, Vietnam has a heap of variations on the humble noodle dish. Each showcases a subtle balance of the five cardinal flavours: spicy, sweet, bitter, salty and sour — and all pair well with an ice cold brew.
Vietnamese Noodle Soups
Fun facts about
How many varieties of pho Vietnam has, each differing in broth, protein and garnish.
The minimum amount of time a pho broth simmers.
How many calories pho typically has. It also has a hearty serve of iron and protein.
Chicken pho came about in 1939 when beef sales on Mondays and Fridays were forbidden.
A BITE-SIZED HISTORY OF VIETNAMESE NOODLE SOUP
It all started with pho. The origins of the soup are vague, but we can say with relative certainty that it originated around Hanoi (northern Vietnam) as a riff on a traditional water buffalo soup in the early 20th century after French colonisation introduced a higher demand for beef. When war broke out in 1954, the country was partitioned into North and South Vietnam. Over one million fled from the north to the south, bringing Hanoi-style pho into Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).
There are hundreds of varieties of Vietnamese noodle soup, but pho is Vietnam’s richest cultural export. Quite simply, there are two basic types of pho: pho bac (northern) and pho nam (southern). Simple and austere, pho bac is a steaming hot bowl of savoury broth cooked with beef bones, leg, oxtails, onion, ginger and star anise, served with flat rice noodles and different cuts of beef. Southern pho allows for the liberal addition of herbs and garnishes (including hoisin and chilli sauce) and a wider variety of protein — this is probably the type of pho you’ll be most familiar with here in Australia.
THE MANY VARIETIES OF NOODLE SOUP
As you move around Vietnam, each region boasts its signature style, making use of locally sourced herbs, spices and livestock. Here are ten standout varieties of Vietnamese noodle soup.
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BÚN BÒ HUE
This soup originated in Huế (central Vietnam) and is a sweet and spicy variety. It contains rounded, rice vermicelli noodles and has a strong lemongrass flavour. It is typically served with beef shank, oxtail, pigs knuckles and marinated pig blood, and garnished with lime wedge, spring onion and a variety of herbs. -
CAO LAU
From the Quang Nam Province to showcase a variety of colours, textures and flavours. Chewy, springy turmeric noodles (similar to Japanese udon) are the stand out feature, mixing perfectly with hearty pork and herbs (that is, basil and mint). -
BÁNH CANH
Literally translating to 'soup cake', this one takes its namesake from the thick sheets of uncooked tapioca dough from which its noodles are cut. Ingredients vary depending on location and preference, but it is not uncommon to find bánh canh served with a thick crab soup, pork knuckle, shrimp or boiled pork. -
BÚN MANG VIT
Duck is the standout feature, holding its own against rice vermicelli noodles, bamboo shoots, fish sauce, fresh lettuce, cabbage and mint. -
MÌ QUANG
From the central Quảng Nam Province. It will typically feature shrimp and pork as protein, a simply seasoned broth (although a smaller amount of broth than its counterparts), sesame rice crackers, fried onions and Vietnamese greens (coriander, mint and banana blossom). -
BÚN RIÊU
This is a vermicelli, pork and tomato soup that originated in the Red River Delta. The broth is heavy and explosive, packed with annatto seed oil, tomato paste, tamarind and Thai chilli. For protein, freshwater crabs are combined with ground pork, tofu and crab cakes. -
BÚN OC
A snail vermicelli soup of Hanoi, in northern Vietnam. The broth is thin, but packed with snails and noodles, green banana, fried tofu and perrilla leaves. Roasted snails may be eaten as an entree to bún ốc. -
BÚN THANG
Originated in Northern Vietnam. Its broth is made from chicken and pig bones, shrimp and mắm tôm (shrimp) paste and is be served with julienned egg, Vietnamese ham, chicken and green onions. -
MIEN GÀ
This soup packed is with cellophane glass noodles and is typically eaten in the home during the Lunar New Year or when acknowledging the passing of a loved one. Its broth is light and savoury and is seasoned with black peppercorn, fish sauce and ginger. -
HU TIEU NAM VANG
Super popular in the deep south of Vietnam. It features tapioca-based noodles, an umami-rich broth of pork bone and dried shrimp, with pork loin and liver as protein. It’s garnished with Chinese chive, celery, basil, fried garlic and shallots.
EATING ETIQUETTE
Opinions on how pho should be eaten vary considerably across regions, but mostly it comes down to personal preference. Purists will scoff at those who season their broth before tasting it. When your steaming hot bowl of pho arrives, it’s good etiquette to inhale deeply to take in the aromatics, then lower your spoon to sample the complexity of the glorious broth. If it’s not to your taste, feel free to season with a lime wedge, fresh chilli and any of the fresh herbs that have been served alongside your soup.
While hoisin and chilli sauce are often served alongside your steaming hot bowl of pho, it’s generally frowned upon to pour these directly into the broth. Instead, pour a small amount of sauce into a small bowl and dip your meat in between slurps of noodles and broth.
Slurp your soup with gusto, noodles and all. If you finish the noodles first, you’re welcome to raise the bowl to your mouth. When you’ve finished, it’s Vietnamese tradition to bridge your chopsticks over the bowl.
A PERFECT COMBINATION
A big bowl of soup goes down a treat with an ice-cold beer — the crispness of the beer will balance out the sweetness (or the spice) and enhance your all-round slurping experience. A Little Creatures Pilsner is light and super drinkable with seafood or pork-based soups, while a James Squire The Swindler is better for spicier serves, like bún bò Huế — as it’s a summer ale, the pear and watermelon notes will help cool your mouth and counterbalance the chilli. A lighter soup like miến gà would be well matched with a mid-strength lager like XXXX GOLD — the slight bitterness will add another level to lemongrass and ginger in the dish.
Craving pho and beer? Get your fix at the Melbourne Night Noodle Markets by Beer The Beautiful Truth from November 9 to 26.
Illustrations: Barry Patenaude.
Images: Kimberley Low.
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