Vietnamese Noodle Soups

Understanding Vietnamese noodle soup is key to understanding Vietnamese culture — the evolution of pho encompasses years of history, divide, regional diversity and cultural influences. From the traditional pho that originated in the north to the Cambodian-influenced soups of the south, Vietnam has a heap of variations on the humble noodle dish. Each showcases a subtle balance of the five cardinal flavours: spicy, sweet, bitter, salty and sour — and all pair well with an ice cold brew.

A BITE-SIZED HISTORY OF VIETNAMESE NOODLE SOUP

It all started with pho. The origins of the soup are vague, but we can say with relative certainty that it originated around Hanoi (northern Vietnam) as a riff on a traditional water buffalo soup in the early 20th century after French colonisation introduced a higher demand for beef. When war broke out in 1954, the country was partitioned into North and South Vietnam. Over one million fled from the north to the south, bringing Hanoi-style pho into Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).

There are hundreds of varieties of Vietnamese noodle soup, but pho is Vietnam’s richest cultural export. Quite simply, there are two basic types of pho: pho bac (northern) and pho nam (southern). Simple and austere, pho bac is a steaming hot bowl of savoury broth cooked with beef bones, leg, oxtails, onion, ginger and star anise, served with flat rice noodles and different cuts of beef. Southern pho allows for the liberal addition of herbs and garnishes (including hoisin and chilli sauce) and a wider variety of protein — this is probably the type of pho you’ll be most familiar with here in Australia.

THE MANY VARIETIES OF NOODLE SOUP

As you move around Vietnam, each region boasts its signature style, making use of locally sourced herbs, spices and livestock. Here are ten standout varieties of Vietnamese noodle soup.

EATING ETIQUETTE

Opinions on how pho should be eaten vary considerably across regions, but mostly it comes down to personal preference. Purists will scoff at those who season their broth before tasting it. When your steaming hot bowl of pho arrives, it’s good etiquette to inhale deeply to take in the aromatics, then lower your spoon to sample the complexity of the glorious broth. If it’s not to your taste, feel free to season with a lime wedge, fresh chilli and any of the fresh herbs that have been served alongside your soup. 

While hoisin and chilli sauce are often served alongside your steaming hot bowl of pho, it’s generally frowned upon to pour these directly into the broth. Instead, pour a small amount of sauce into a small bowl and dip your meat in between slurps of noodles and broth. 

Slurp your soup with gusto, noodles and all. If you finish the noodles first, you’re welcome to raise the bowl to your mouth. When you’ve finished, it’s Vietnamese tradition to bridge your chopsticks over the bowl.

A PERFECT COMBINATION

A big bowl of soup goes down a treat with an ice-cold beer — the crispness of the beer will balance out the sweetness (or the spice) and enhance your all-round slurping experience. A Little Creatures Pilsner is light and super drinkable with seafood or pork-based soups, while a James Squire The Swindler is better for spicier serves, like bún bò Huế — as it’s a summer ale, the pear and watermelon notes will help cool your mouth and counterbalance the chilli. A lighter soup like miến gà would be well matched with a mid-strength lager like XXXX GOLD — the slight bitterness will add another level to lemongrass and ginger in the dish. 

Craving pho and beer? Get your fix at the Melbourne Night Noodle Markets by Beer The Beautiful Truth from November 9 to 26.

Illustrations: Barry Patenaude.
Images: Kimberley Low.