Overview
Lygon Street doesn't have any shortage of Italian wine bars, bit the latest one is still notable — if not due to its food and wine offering, then because of its history. Making its home in the strip's King and Godfree building — which recently reopened after a huge multi-year renovation and relaunch — Agostino has been named in a nod to one of the area's original Italian food pioneers. It's a homage to Vincenza-born Carlo Valmorbida, the man who originally opened grocery store Frank Agostino's and whose family has owned (and continues to run) the building since 1955.
While the King and Godfree deli and coffee bar — and adjoining rooftop bar — opened at the end of last year, the 50-seat Agostino has just joined the party. In keeping with the overall refurbishment, the space itself boasts a rich riot of textures against clean lines, brought to life under the guidance of award-winning Melbourne architect Chris Connell. You'll spy further collaborative efforts in the commissioned collection of ceramics, featuring exclusive pieces by local artist Shari Lowndes.
The Chris Connell-designed interior.
From the kitchen comes a food offering that's concise, yet punchy, starring drinking fare with a clear northern Italian lean. You might find plates like grilled octopus teamed with nduja, new potatoes and salsa verde; a roasted quail matched to white polenta, sprouts, sage and chestnuts; and a rabbit ragu pappardelle flying the flag for winter.
But it's the wine program that takes centre stage, heroing a diverse spread of drops from across Australia and the homeland, including a rotation of tap wine. A solid retail selection offers bottles to enjoy in-house or at home, while the temperature controlled cellar plays host to a covetable reserve list, filled with rare labels that have been housed here for years. It's all backed by a classic-leaning cocktail lineup and a beer list offering both local brews and Italian craft labels.
Drop by for an after-work drink, then finish off with a scoop of Pidapipo on the way home.
Find Agostino at 297 Lygon Street, Carlton — it's open 12–10pm daily.