ESTELLE, NORTHCOTE

In 2019, celebrated chef Scott Pickett combined his two neighbouring northside venues to create one mega-restaurant that celebrates wining, dining and everything in between. And if you'd like to sample the best of what the Estelle has to offer, all in one session, go straight for the signature four-course tasting menu. Nab one of the ringside seats next to the open kitchen and settle in over dishes boasting plenty of Pickett's trademark contemporary flair. Think, onion and parmesan brioche with creamy stracciatella, puffed beef tendon crisps carrying flavours of sesame and coffee, and Tasmanian Roaring Forties lamb done with radish and nasturtium. If you have extra cash to splash, you can even take your feast to the next level, with the Estelle's $50 beverage pairing.

Cost: Four-course chef's tasting $90, matched wines $50

SHU, COLLINGWOOD

Why should carnivores have all the degustation fun? At Collingwood's forward-thinking contemporary Chinese spot Shu, there's a decadent feast for all kinds of culinary persuasions. The vegan degustation ($65) here has none of the animal products, but all of the creativity, plating up ten courses of bold, experimental fare, carefully honed through Shu's series of weeknight vegan dinners ($39). Dishes are cleverly executed and pack a serious visual punch, fusing traditional Sichuan flavours with modern technique. Past adventurous creations have included the likes of hand-rolled charcoal noodles matched with a sesame cream and preserved mustard greens, a dish of savoury beetroot jelly bathed in hot garlic sauce, and a very cute pot plant-inspired veggie roll finished with a black tahini soil.

Cost: Ten-course vegan degustation $65

HENRY SUGAR, CARLTON NORTH

Everything at this cosy neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar tells a story; from the carefully curated drops on the ever-changing list of vino, to each of the beautifully-executed, creatively-charged dishes flying from the kitchen. So for full impact, you'll want to set aside a bit of time and bunker down with some good company to experience the five-course chef's tasting menu, which clocks in at $75 per person. The inclusions change regularly, though current menu hits will give you some idea of what seasonal goodness to expect — raw kangaroo tostadas with bush tomato and an umeboshi mayo, a verjus-braised onion tarte tatin with creme fraiche, and perhaps some smoked sardines served with creamy white bean hummus.

Cost: Chef's menu $75

Peter Tarasiuk

DAUGHTER IN LAW, CBD

This popular venture from renowned chef Jessi Singh is a rule-breaking Indian restaurant that likes to stray from tradition. Authenticity might not be on the cards for the most part, but bold flavours certainly are, across an ever-changing menu of contemporary creations. Expect the likes of tandoori paneer sliders, Indian spiced fried chook served with a tempered mustard seed mayo, and a proudly 'unauthentic' butter chicken. If you want to try a bit of everything, order the tasting menu — it's a chef's selection of innovative appetisers, curries, naan, rice and dessert, ringing up at a very reasonable $55 per person. Fancy adding a drinks package? It's an additional $50 for a selection of five wines, or $29 for a trio of beers.

Cost: Tasting menu $55

OSTER EATERY, RICHMOND

Richmond's friendly neighbourhood osteria likes to keep its flavours honest and unfussy, though always has room for just a little bit of theatre. Here, a hyper-local focus and deep respect for seasonality means you're in for something different every time you visit. And if you fancy tasting the pick of this elegant, open-minded fare, you'll want to get acquainted with the five-course chef's tasting menu. For $95, you'll embark on a journey through the latest and greatest Euro-inspired creations — think, pork and chicken terrine sided with brioche and green tomato chutney, paccheri pasta with a rich wagyu beef ragu, and Abrolhos Island scallops paired with zucchini flowers.

Cost: Chef's tasting menu $95

​SEBASTIAN BEACH BAR & GRILL, WILLIAMSTOWN

When a Basque-style beachside escape is on the cards, Melbourne's own slice of San Sebastian ticks all the right boxes. Overlooking Williamstown Beach, the aptly named Sebastian Beach Grill & Bar is plating up a taste of sunny Spain, its menus making a hero of the kitchen's custom-made charcoal grill. There's a range of degustation options here, though it's hard to go past the $75 set menu, available for groups of four or more. It's a produce-driven lineup, kicking off with tapas-style small plates like the leek croquettes, and crispy mussels with a fermented chilli aioli. Deeper in, you'll find yourself diving into the likes of a Black Angus rump cap hot off the charcoal grill, coal-roasted pumpkin matched with walnuts and crème fraîche, and the traditional Spanish shortbread biscuits known as polvorones.

Cost: Set menus ($60, $75 and $90)

Images: Daughter in Law by Peter Tarasiuk