How a Melbourne Hospo Veteran Opened the Bistro of His Dreams in Box Hill
Hospitality veteran, Sam Hatherley saw a gap in his suburb of Box Hill and turned it into a cafe-cum-bistro.
Think of Box Hill's cuisine, and you'll most likely picture the best Chinese food in Melbourne. With its large Asian population, the Eastern suburb is a mecca for world-class noodles, soups and dumplings. But, after living in Box Hill for over a decade, hospitality veteran Sam Hatherley identified a gap in his neighbourhood and, in 2024, opened the cafe and bistro, UNA UNA.
"Can you imagine a hidden bistro tucked under an apartment building in Box Hill, run by ex-hatted restaurant staff? We wanted to bring something fresh," Sam says. "[UNA UNA has] modern European-style, semi-fine-dining dishes with seasonal menus and thoughtful, unhurried service."
Local Influence
To ease into the suburb and build rapport with locals, Sam launched UNA UNA as a cafe by day, serving focaccia sandwiches, coffee, and specialty drinks and a bistro by night on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
"For many of our bistro customers, their first experience was actually trying our sandwiches. It's a great way to connect with the neighbourhood during the day, give people a chance to get to know us, and create a natural introduction to the bistro experience in the evenings."
For nearly a century, Box Hill was deemed a dry zone. A hangover from Australia's temperance movement, the laws required residents to vote for a liquor licence to be granted to a new restaurant or venue, with residents facing fines if they failed to vote. As a result, Sam found that there was a gap for a bistro that offers quality cocktails and a relaxed drinking experience.
The cocktail menu at UNA UNA is just that. Simple yet refined, reflecting Sam's 20 years of experience, including a stint in Japan. During the day, guests can sip from hand-shaken Italian Whipped Coffee Cream, Whipped Orange Coffee, and house-made Almond Lemon Soda and Walnut Cola. The specialty drinks are creative and refreshing, crafted with the same care and attention as the evening cocktails.
From Little Things
Like many people in hospitality, Sam always dreamt of opening his own place. "Nothing huge, just a small spot that really felt like me."
The seeds of UNA UNA becoming a reality first emerged during COVID, when Sam stepped away from the fast-paced, relentless industry where he worked as a chef and bartender to become a stay-at-home dad.
"I loved working in hatted restaurants and bars, but the pace is intense, and most nights I'd be getting home around 2 am," Sam reflects. "I realised I wanted to be more present for my family, and if I didn't start the bistro I'd been imagining for years, I might never do it. It just felt like the right moment to finally build something of my own."
The result is restaurant-quality food in a casual bistro setting. "With the rising cost of living, people are more cautious about spending, so I didn't want UNA UNA to be a fine-dining restaurant with a big price tag."
Instead, UNA UNA keeps it personal. Comprising of just four tables and a casual lounge area, Sam wanted to ensure that everyone could be looked after properly. For UNA UNA's menu, Sam says it had to be simple, classic, and free from gimmicks — no edible flowers or smoke gun just for Instagram. The Spring Dinner Menu was recently launched, featuring dishes such as Tuna Crudo, Chargrilled Calamari, Lamb Katsu, Tête de Moine, and the signature Roasted Duck Breast.
"Our menu is simple but ambitious," says Sam. "We change it every three to four months to reflect what's in season and what's available at the markets. Box Hill has amazing fresh vegetables, meat, and fish stalls, so we make the most of that, keeping everything fresh, local, and full of flavour."
At its core, UNA UNA is a reflection of its neighbourhood. Sam's 14-year-old son can often be found helping out on weekends, greeting customers and making coffees. His daughter, Una, tells her friends and teachers about "her coffee shop".
"We want UNA UNA to be a place where people can come together — enjoy good food and drinks, and feel part of the community as the neighbourhood grows. It feels like one big extended family," says Sam. "UNA UNA is still young and evolving, and there are so many possibilities ahead — much like my kids, learning and growing every day."
Image credit: UNA UNA
