Overview
The Commune Group has proved it's got the goods when it comes to contemporary Vietnamese and Japanese flavours, having gifted Melbourne with Tokyo Tina, the Hanoi Hannah stable and Windsor's flame-driven Firebird. But for its latest trick, the team's crossing the continent, embracing a modern Chinese angle to deliver its latest venture, Balaclava's Moonhouse.
Opening Wednesday, June 1, in the heritage-listed art deco corner building formerly home to Ilona Staller, the two-storey restaurant is wearing a sophisticated new look steered by renowned studio Ewert Leaf.
Heritage features have been carefully refurbished — or repurposed — across the 110-seat space, now complemented by colourful onyx marble counters, custom vinyl tabletops and pendant lights hung like tiny lunar spheres in a nod to the venue's name.
by Parker Blain
Climb the stairs to the upper level and you'll discover a 30-seat private dining room, alongside a separate cocktail bar complete with roaring fireplace and covetable window booth seating.
The kitchen's playing to Melbourne culinary nostalgia by dishing up a contemporary reworking of some classic Chinese flavours. Come snack time, that means bites like the Hainanese chicken club sandwich, a Sichuan-spiced steak tartare and an addictive take on the familiar prawn toast served with a prawn bisque dip.
You'll find dan dan noodles with mushroom and sesame, a crispy-skinned half chook paired with lemon pepper and sweet chilli, and grilled Murray cod in a shaoxing broth. Order the 'Duck Ceremony' and you'll get half a roast duck, with pancakes, plum salt, hoisin, confit duck leg ssam and everything else needed for a DIY peking duck feast.
by Parker Blain
And with Group Pastry Chef Enza Soto (Brae, Baker D. Chirico, Bibelot) heading up the dessert offering, expect to finish your meal on a high note — perhaps with five spice doughnuts and black pepper ice cream, or the coconut soy pudding matched with mandarin sorbet.
The all-Aussie wine list is also a standout, pouring a mindfully-sourced selection of drops made with a conscience, and sitting familiar labels alongside newer, innovative finds. You'll also spy craft brews from the likes of Hop Nation and Stomping Ground; the latter's even teamed up with the venue for a collaboration Czech-style pilsner.
Find Moonhouse at 282 Carlisle Street, Balaclava, from Wednesday, June 2. It'll open from 5pm–late Wednesday to Sunday, and for lunch from 2–4pm Saturdays and Sundays.
Images: Parker Blain, Jana Langhorst and Leah Traecey.