Overview
Bar Romantica's closure after many years serving late-night pizza and pasta was met with more than a few teary goodbyes. However, the good news is that Etta's acclaimed restaurateur, Hannah Green, has taken over the cherished Brunswick East space. And after months of anticipation, the wait is finally over, with Daphne now open.
Bringing a similarly communal vibe, Green wants guests to feel like they're stepping into her home. To make everyone feel welcome, expect early-bird sittings, happy meals for the little ones, and weekly events where snacks and drinks flow until the early hours. Green says, "It's a restaurateur's answer to a pub. The mood is fun and easygoing, the food is highly delicious but not too fancy. Our rules are that my dad should be able to read and understand everything on the menu, and it should be as accessible for after-school snacks and casual catch-ups as it is for milestone celebrations and midnight martinis."
Stepping inside, guests will encounter a venue divided into two distinct sections, with the front offering a dedicated bar space and casual counter service, primed for a walk-in feed or quick drink. In the back, the mood becomes a little more refined, featuring Green's signature elevated service and tables graced with crisp linen. Meanwhile, a semi-private dining room presents a fancy spot to celebrate a milestone with up to 30 of your closest pals.
"This site has meant so much to Brunswick East over the years, and I feel incredibly fortunate to be its next custodian," says Green. "What I hope to create with Daphne is a welcoming space where everyone feels comfortable, and that isn't just for special occasions. Somewhere friends can drop in for an impromptu cocktail a couple of times a week, and parents can take the kids for an early meal before heading home for bathtime."
In the kitchen, the main focus is a custom woodfire grill and oven, designed and built by Samuel Frarracio, aka The Brick Chef. This unique bit of kit will help respected Head Chef Diana Desensi — previously behind acclaimed spots like Montalto, Pt Leo Estate and Saint George — make the European-leaning plates shine even brighter, aided further with seasonal produce sourced from a bevy of local farms and friends. "I've admired Diana's food for years," says Green. "There's real heart and generosity in everything she puts on the plate. When I started dreaming up Daphne, she was the first person I thought of. She understands what it means to cook for a community."
A concise menu of approachable snacks, such as grilled potato flatbread with mussels, and Bloody Mary tomatoes with pickles and olives, complements one glass after the next. Larger dishes include the likes of ricotta tortellini with artichoke and milk sauce, roast chicken with blistered grapes, pork cotoletta with 'Caesar' leaves, and a fresh Cobb salad. Shaped by childhood memories of family meals centred around what grew in the garden at home, Desensi's ethos is renowned for being nostalgic and highly seasonal.
Diners can also expect daily tarts, cakes and crostatas to showcase the best farm-fresh fruit, served simply with a dollop of cream. As for the drinks, Sommelier Ashley Boburka (Etta, Rockpool Bar & Grill) has pulled together on-tap drops from Yarra Valley winemaker Dom Valentine. There's no shortage of choice as you're welcome to delve into Etta's 400-plus bottles — after all, it's just a couple of doors down.
Sam Peasnell (Etta, Dom's Social Club) has also developed a curated cocktail program, with light spins on classic drinks. Get down on Monday evenings for Martini Club, complete with Nah-tinis for non-drinkers. Catering to 125 guests across the bar and restaurant, a cosy design led by IF Architecture will mix and match tactile materials, from walnut timber and stainless steel to glass brick and coffee-coloured upholstery. Fans of Bar Romantica will also instantly recognise the terrazzo floors, along with the custom-built sound system. Where Etta was Green's warmly sophisticated original, expect Daphne to bring a little more quirky fun to the local neighbourhood dining scene.
Images: Kristoffer Paulsen and Ashley Ludkin.
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