Dexter

Self-described as taking a "no rules approach" to American BBQ, Dexter had a lot to prove. But prove it they did — almost immediately, in fact, when they started serving their signature hot meat doughnuts. The brisket-filled deep-fried batter balls are rich and savoury, and then dusted with sugar and paprika for sweetness. Needless to say, these set the scene for the rest of the menu.

The short rib comes with a caramel glaze, the mash is flavoured with bone marrow and the pig's head bun is filled with pickled pineapple and hot sauce. Choose a BBQ tray ($19-28) or a brioche bun with pickles and your choice of meat — there's pulled pork, fried chicken and fried tomato along with the pig's head. Plus, they do picklebacks.

It doesn't much matter if you live in the Preston area or nowhere near it — just get here. Hot, sugary brisket doughnuts await.

Images: Emily Bartlett.