No. 8 by John Lawson - CLOSED

Overview

John Lawson didn't just end up in the kitchen of No. 8 by chance. After Gordon Ramsay brought him out to Australia to work on his (failed) venture at Crown and Lawson then took over the reins as it transitioned into Mr. Hive, it became apparent that his background, working as a chef in London, France and then Australia, readied him for heading his own Crown restaurant: No. 8 by John Lawson. As with the man himself, every ingredient he uses has a story behind it; supremely calculated, nothing got here by chance.

For Lawson, locally sourced produce is a must. But, with a slew of other restaurants and cafes doing the same, he went a step further. Take a pick of something off the menu and it is probably from a crop that has been grown exclusively for No. 8 — much of the produce isn't available anywhere else. With this in mind, the dining experience seems infinitely more special; your plate is much more than the sum of its parts.

This is evident from first bite. The potato and rosemary bread is the perfect density and, slathered with seaweed butter, possibly the most moreish thing on the menu. The trick is not to get too attached — developed by EDS Breads especially for No. 8, this is (very unfortunately) the only place you can get a slice. At this point it would be easy to down a whole loaf, but a quick look at the menu might persuade you otherwise.

Dishes here are familiar to fine diners, although they are done without the standardisation on which the old Number 8 might have rested. John Lawson's mark here is clearly present. The jicama ravioli salad sees cool, creamy pockets of avocado burst with the crunch of pistachios ($18) and the Flowerdale Farm salad with wheat berries, cute baby carrots and nutty almond mushrooms ($18) is worth a try for its fresh earthiness, if not for the novelty of micro-greens.

Sustainability is apparent in almost every facet of the menu — ask the waitstaff and they're sure to tell you exactly where your dish came from. The Barwon River lamb originates from a herd raised just for No. 8; served with spiced quinoa and yoghurt, it's a good choice whether you care where your meat is from or not. Just as tenderly soft is the Ora king salmon with soy salt, crab and sweet corn succotash ($38), although it was lacquered with a bit too much soy for such a large piece. But, while rich, the food is not overly heavy, leaving more than enough room for a serving of rhubarb and custard Eton mess ($16) or a very classy rum caramel banana split ($17).

Exclusivity has always been the essence of premium dining at Crown and now, with the relaunch of No. 8 by John Lawson, this restaurant has the fare to match its cry. Exquisitely fresh, the produce constructs meals you won't — or rather, can't — eat anywhere else. Lawson has made sure of that.