The Atlantic Group is known for setting up some of the best seafood restaurants in Melbourne — most notably The Atlantic. So, it was no surprise to see its takeaway sushi joint Sushi Baby do so damn well in Brighton immediately after opening in mid-2023.
Riding this wave of success, the crew went ahead and set up a new dine-in restaurant in early 2024 with a bright pink and green dining room and a courtyard filled with greenery and pink blossom garlands. This fit-out is starkly different from most of Melbourne's sushi joints, which tend to keep the colour scheme muted and furnishings traditional. But Sushi Baby isn't your classic sushi shop, and the design reflects the kitchen's contemporary stylings and playful approach to Japanese cuisine.
The nori tacos — filled with raw salmon, avocado, teriyaki sauce and furikake — are a brilliant representation of this. The classic flavours and ingredients are presented differently without being unusual just for the sake of it.
The sushi purists out there shouldn't be scared off, as the Sushi Baby crew isn't messing around too much. Traditional nigiri, maki rolls and inari are all up for grabs, plus there's a daily changing sashimi platter for those wanting to really treat themselves. Katsu sandos and some larger sharing plates help the venue transition from day to night.
Upgrading the space hasn't meant that it has totally abandoned its takeout sushi roots. Most of the dine-in goodies can be made to take away, plus the 62- and 85-piece sushi boxes are still as stunning as always, coming in a bright pink box with the brand's signature laughing baby face printed under the lid. Now that is indeed sushi, baby.
Images: Jake Roden