Vin Populi

The same historic spot in Fremantle's West End that was once home to the iconic Roma Cucina has been taken over and reborn as Vin Populi.

Its new owners, Emma Ferguson and her partner Dan Morris, also helm Northbridge's No Mafia and crowd-favourite in Perth's CBD Balthazar. The team is rounded out by head chef Leo Crescenzi (from Lazio, Italy) and bar leader Silvia Sciarri from Sicily.

The kit-out heightens the 20th-century building's history with textured plaster walls, shelves of local and Italian wines and mid-century modern furnishings that evoke images of the Mediterranean.

Diners can check the day's fare on the central chalkboard menu, which is updated to accommodate seasonal produce and fresh ocean-caught seafood. Although changeable, saffron osso buco tagliatelle, squid ink spaghetti and potato agnolotti make regular appearances.

The wine list also changes often and is filled with organic and natural wine producers from Western Australia and Italy.

Vin Populi takes reservations, but walk-ins are encouraged.