Overview
The end of winter means three things for New Zealanders. The end of nights spent curled up on the couch with a hot choccie and our possum fur slippers in front of Shorty. Pohutakawa trees blooming left, right and centre causing hayfever woes countrywide. And Fashion Week - a full seven days of catwalks, champagne and most importantly, clothes.
This year's week of fashion is looking especially promising, with a lineup consisting of a bunch of our old faithfuls, a few designers returning after hiatuses, and some fresh new talent to get us all excited. It’s no easy task narrowing the extensive list of designers down to ten, but here we have it; the top ten designers to look out for this fashion week.
10. Nom*D
Not huge advocates for saving the best until last, NZFW launches right into the good stuff with Nom*D starting the week off with a bang on Tuesday morning. The Dunedin based fashion label is known nation-wide for its almost Addams-family vibes, with dark tones and sombre lines saturating each and every creation. The brand has developed a loyal following as it has grown in popularity over the country, and these Nom*D-lovers preach the same praises for their label of choice, every piece is practical, wearable and reliable.
No matter the trend of the moment, Nom*D’s line is sure to be true to their uniform with traditional lines and flattering shapes. Their Winter 2015 NOISE collection promises to keep true to the Nom*D bible, with a sophisticated range drenched in their usual mystery and darkness.
9. Zambesi
Another well established local fashion giant, Zambesi is back for Fashion Week this year. One of the country’s forefathers of fashion, the brand was founded in 1979, and has been a fashion favourite ever since. Smooth transitions from season to season means that the brand’s pieces are always recognisable on the streets thanks to an established image and an iconic ‘look’. As always, this season is all about taking underrated and underused fabrics and morphing the cloth in unexpected ways to produce innovative constructions and textual contrasts. A nod to layering, darkness and a splash of vintage shakes up the brand’s image, and promises an exciting catwalk.
The menswear, designed by Dwayne Johnston, promises to adhere to its longstanding reputation of well cut, practical fashion. The beauty certainly lies within the details, so that wearers can retain their masculine style whilst looking traditionally professional.
8. Lucy Mcintosh and Pardon My French
I know, I know. I am cheating by putting two very different labels as one bullet point. But they both really deserve to be part of the list and I couldn't narrow it down. So deal with it. Lucy Mcintosh is an Auckland based designer that finds a niche between classic feminine design, and edgy contemporary fashion. A newcomer to the local fashion scene, the brand was established in 2012 but has gone from strength to strength since. This Fashion Week the label promises flattering shapes, structured tailoring, and a myriad of textures and colours to produce fun yet functional fashion.
Another newbie is Napier based Pardon My French. Founded in May 2011, the brand promotes timeless styles and quality fabrics. The label might not be growing as exponentially as other fashion newcomers, but you can guarantee that you’ll find your next season staple on this catwalk.
7. Kate Sylvester
Coming up to their millstone 21st anniversary in the industry, Kate Sylvester has a lot to celebrate. Since its inception in 1993, Kate Sylvester has become a frontrunner in the New Zealand fashion industry, and a favourite in kiwi women’s homes nationwide. The thing I love most about Kate’s designs is the unpredictability of each season. Where labels like Zambesi flow from season to season as seamlessly as a well-tailored coat, Kate Sylvester isn't afraid to mix it up and take a few risks. Known for congregating the incongruous, we have watched in awe as Kate manages to pull off fusions between classical art and punk rock, casual sportswear and haute couture, and pop culture with history from every era.
I’m not sure how she does it, but in my eyes Kate can do no wrong, and after taking a break from NZFW, I’m sure her return to the catwalk will be a showstopper.
6. Stolen Girlfriends Club
Everyone has been talking about this show for weeks. Stolen Girlfriends Club is the epitome of individuality, limitlessness, and expecting the unexpected. Founded in 2005, the menswear and womenswear label has grown to the point where they are one of the main contributors to countrywide trends and upcoming fashions. They tackle pop culture and manage to fuse it with punk rock, skate and even sometimes a sporty vibe to create unpredictable and eclectic lines that are sure to impress.
In its eighth showing at NZFW this year we are expecting nothing less than SGF ordinary (or unordinary in this case) since the brand changes its off-site venue annually, and the walk is never the same from year to year. Expect a large scale spectacle. Expect rebellion and rock and roll. Expect to spend a lot of money buying every piece in their latest collection.
5. Andrea Moore
Fifteen years since Andrea’s vision of becoming a nationally celebrated designer, and her iconic label is still going strong. The brand is known for the eccentric splash of colour that it adds to New Zealand’s otherwise largely neutrally-toned fashion scene. Fun prints and bright tones may be what catches the eye in Andrea Moore designs, but the brand boasts its dedication to quality and durability, along with flawless tailoring and pieces that aim to flatter each and every wearer. The NZFW show is all about spontaneity and irreverence, mixtures of colour, texture, proportion and print.
Her latest diffusion line project ‘I AM’ is set to debut on the runway, with more geometric patterns and an origami theme, but this time the label experiments with a monochromatic palette. Andrea Moore is trying something new here, and I can’t wait to see how it plays out.
4. Miromoda
For those who haven’t heard of it, Miromoda is the Indigenous Maori Fashion Apparel Board that was founded late in 2008. The board promotes Maori fashion design and aims to provide a platform for designers to bring culture and their New Zealand heritage into their work, to create a sense of ‘New Zealand fashion’. This year the featured designers include the likes of Kharl Williams Wipera, whose collection is set to debut on NZFW’s runway. His look is luxurious and New Zealand inspired, and his gowns will make you drool. Another local talent showing on the catwalk is Maree McLean, who will present both her self-titled shoe brand, and her made-to-order clothing brand ‘The Noble Savage’ co-designed with Parisian Angela Gallard.
A fusion between Maori and Parisian cultures, the label is ethical, environmental, sustainable yet absolutely glam. The Miromoda show has always taken Fashion Week by storm, and this year it could well be the star of the show.
3. Salasai
Jumping in at the last minute is Australian designer Kirsha Whitcher with her label Salasai. Known for having bold prints that contrast with soft tailoring and flowy numbers, the brand is dark in both colour and vibe. The brand focuses on locating that always elusive junction between the glamorous and the practical, the comfort and the chic, luxury and wearability. The result is a sophisticated, classy, yet uber comfortable look, with timeless pieces that promise to be your wardrobe staples for years.
Recently joined by designer Kelly Watson, the two have the goal of extending Salasai into a lifestyle brand, by launching Salasai Home in 2014. It’ll be interesting to see how the brand’s look transfers onto furniture, but for now we will just have to admire their upcoming collection this Fashion Week.
2. Underground
This is going to be awesome. Underground is an under the radar, too cool for school, rebellious exhibition come live installation curated by stylist Chris Lorimer. Six of the most innovative and talked about labels of the nation are coming together in the Underground exhibition to offer audiences a show in Silo 6 that will provide a glimpse into the future of New Zealand fashion.
Meadowlark, the cult jewellery brand is known for creating timeless pieces that evoke a unique meaning for every wearer, including celebrities Rihanna, Alison Mosshart and Florence Welch. Jimmy D is also appearing in the Underground, promising to bring his signature look that oozes mystery, darkness and a wry sense of humour. His line is deconstructed, fearlessly eccentric, and plays with proportions, resulting in a must-see collection.
1. Trelise Cooper
It had to happen. There is no list of top New Zealand designers without including Trelise. She is fashion royalty, and it would be a crime to miss this show. Glamour and luxury mark every piece that is produced by the local fashion icon, with a clashing but chic colour palate, shapely silhouettes and amazing fabrics, it is no wonder Trelise Cooper is not only loved by New Zealand, but is celebrated worldwide.
Trelise shows always wow audiences with their theatricality and tendency towards the dramatic. Each collection is deeply inspired by some sort of muse, and each show pays tribute to this inspiration source in a way that is sure to wow. It’ll be unreal.