Overview
Concrete Playground Art Editor Lara Thomas continues the series of Tourist In My Own Country, this time, she returns to her home town of Cape Town, South Africa.
For me Cape Town means blue skies, beaches, boerewors, braais and biltong. I hadn’t been back for so long. It'd been five years and ten before that. We clearly had a lot of catching up to do; the perfect opportunity to be a tourist in my own country. I was looking forward to seeing family and old friends, reminiscing and of course discovering what’s cool in Cape Town these days. With the exchange rate* in our favour, we embarked on our trip to the Mother City.
*(The local currency is Rand and the exchange rate at the time of travel was around R7 to the dollar. A cup of coffee costs averages around R15.)
What We Did
Lion’s Head
Almost as iconic as Cape Town’s Table Mountain is its little sister, Lion’s Head. Standing at 669m high, just 300 or so metres below Table Mountain, climbing to the top is not for the faint hearted. If you can stomach it, the 360 degree views over the Mother City are well worth the climb and won’t cost you a cent. The first part of the track was a relatively easy, but closer to the top it was more challenging. Fortunately, handholds and stair-like rocks made for a relatively straightforward route to the plateau atop.
You’ll need about 2 hours, plenty of water and good walking shoes. If you’re feeling less energetic, there’s always the cable car to the top of Table Mountain – if you don’t mind the crowds.
Where We Tanned
Camps Bay
With sand to rival the best of the east coast, but with shops and restaurants a stone’s throw away, Camps Bay is one of Cape Town’s most beautiful and convenient beaches. There are umbrellas and loungers available for hire at less than the price of a coffee in Auckland and there are plenty of people selling assorted cold treats on the beach
The strip has a wealth of eateries as well as a small supermarket. We recommend the Grand for tasty, reasonably-priced food and coffee. It’s definitely worth hanging around for a sunset cocktail as Camps Bay kicks it up a notch after dark.
Where We Swam
Clifton
Clifton is one of those names you hear uttered and immediately you know it’s somewhere you have to go. With 4 stunning beaches to choose from, Clifton is a hot spot for Capetonians to cool off. It’s great for swimming, if you can brave the cold, and comes complete with boulders, lifeguards and gentle lapping waves. If you’re after more temperate water, head over to the “warm side” where the Indian Ocean graces the shores of Muizenberg.
People of all ages hit Clifton, but beach number four seems to be where it’s at for the young and hip. Fourth Beach, the only one with a Blue Flag, is the most spacious and though there aren’t shops over the road, you’ll find the same conveniences on the beach as in Camps Bay. If you’re really hankering for something more than chips and ice cream, Camps Bay is within walking distance or a short taxi ride.
Where We Shopped
In the air-conditioned retail haven of the V & A Waterfront you’ll find over 450 retail outlets and a great selection of international brands, including Zara and Mango. Once you’re done shopping for yourself, you can hunt for souvenirs and gifts in the two huge craft markets full of locally produced art, crafts and fashion.
If you’re in need of sustenance, there’s a plethora of restaurants to satisfy any desire and budget. There’s usually live music in the amphitheatre and plenty of waterfront seating to enjoy view. Check out Quay 4 for live music and reasonably priced seafood on the spacious deck overlooking the water. Whatever you do, don’t feed the seagulls.
Where We Ate
Chapman’s Peak Hotel, Hout Bay
This place is busy from midday to midnight, but if you make it down, you’ll see why. Chapman’s Peak Hotel is world famous for its seafood, sustainably fished by locals who live across the bay. The veranda of this historic hotel is the best place to sit as there’s a fantastic view out over Hout Bay and the setting sun. Prices are not exorbitant and the food is good value for money. I can highly recommend the calamari and Portuguese steak. It was so good I could have eaten it all over again.
Where We Had Sundowners
Harvey’s at Winchester Mansions
A fine example of Cape Dutch architecture, the iconic Winchester Mansions makes a beautiful setting for an evening meal or a casual drink. We opted for the bar on the porch overlooking the ocean, but the courtyard offers a more intimate setting for an evening meal. It’s also the venue for their regular Sunday Jazz Brunch.
The menu is international, ranging from bar snacks to fine dining, but there is a good range of local wine and beer on offer, as well as rooms of course.
Where We Partied
Long St and Kloof St
Long St and Kloof St are where it’s at in Cape Town central. The selection of upmarket boutiques and eateries interspersed with the shabby chic variety makes for a colourful experience, day or night. You can get a taste of history in the Long St Cafe, second-hand book stores and African curio shops, while admiring period architecture. Or, grab a bite in the evening and stay to check out the thriving nightlife.
Upper Long St tends to be where most of the nightlife is concentrated and if you head up the hill further you’ll find more bars and restaurants in Kloof st, which is a continuation of Long. There are plenty of backpackers in the area if you’re after cheap and centrally located accommodation.
Seapoint and Greenpoint
A short taxi ride from Long st is Greenpoint and neighbouring suburb Seapoint. There are plenty of bars and clubs catering for different tastes in music and sexual preference. We danced up a storm to French house at Chukkachurri and found friendly people and a laid-back vibe. The dress code for most places, including clubs, is casual and they don’t even mind if you wear your slops (jandals).
Where We Stayed
Lizzie’s B&B, Newlands
Liz was an attentive and helpful host who made us feel welcome throughout our stay. The property was clean, tidy and private – though there isn’t exclusive use of the pool. The three-roomed, self-contained accommodates up to 3 people and comes with all the mod cons, including Wi-Fi access.
Breakfast of fresh fruit, yoghurt, juice, bread, spreads, tea and coffee is provided and there are facilities if you wish to cook your own meals. There’s also a very reasonable laundry service – you can get your clothes washed, dried and ironed for just over R80.
The many B&Bs in Cape Town are a good choice for accommodation. As they are part of a private home, you have the added benefit of good security and someone to ask for advice. Prices start from around R350 per night.
In summary
A melting pot of culture combined with world-class beaches, Cape Town is a great tourist destination. Despite what you hear about South Africa being dangerous, if you take it easy on the gold chains, keep your wallet out of sight and don’t talk to strange men, you shouldn’t have any problems.
We managed to see and do a lot in 3 weeks, but only really scratched the surface of this vibrant and diverse city. There is so much to see and do, you won’t have any trouble finding excuses to stay longer. I’m already hanging out for my next trip and hoping it’s not 5 years away.