By The Glass: The Bottle Shops Teaching Brisbane How to Drink Better

Walk into most bottle shops and the script is predictable: fluorescent lights, shelf after shelf of labels you've seen on billboards, a transaction that begins and ends at the register. But scattered across Brisbane's suburbs, a collection of independent wine stores is rewriting that story — one handwritten tag, one tasting table, one conversation at a time.

Tony and Tanya Harper know Brisbane's hospitality scene inside out. They've spent decades on the floor, as well as in wine judging and food media. When they opened Craft Wine Store in Red Hill in 2012, it was with one clear rule: if a wine appeared in chain advertising, they didn't stock it. The strategy wasn't just contrarian; it came from decades of watching Queensland's liquor retail scene flatten into a monoculture of familiar brands.

"There were hundreds of retailers all selling the same beer, wine and spirits," Tanya Harper remembers. "We wanted to offer something more interesting."

Craft Wine Store Coorparoo. Credit: Kiel Wode.

Craft quickly became a pioneer, introducing Brisbane drinkers to producers that are now household names: Four Pillars, Stargazer, Stone & Wood, Unico Zelo and more. It also set a new standard for how bottle shops could feel.

Both the original Red Hill space and the 2018 Coorparoo store were designed to be warm, tactile and human-scale. Red Hill's rambling nooks contrast with Coorparoo's sleek rectangle and central cold room, but both invite browsing and conversation. The design of each shop was highly intentional, and "entices folk to think a little more broadly," Harper says, "like a bookshop."

That philosophy now defines Brisbane's independent retail scene, though creating these spaces in Queensland isn't easy. Queensland's liquor laws have long favoured big players — publicans, then national supermarkets — through expensive, restrictive commercial hotel licences. But the newer wine merchant licence offers small windows of creativity: the ability to taste, sample and linger, more European cave than bottle-o transaction.

L.P.O. Neighbourhood Wine Store. Credit: Matt Pettigrew.

For Dan Wilson, co-owner of LPO Neighbourhood Wine Store in Tarragindi, that licence was the key to coming home. After opening his third restaurant in London, Wilson returned to Brisbane in 2021.

"From the moment I got back, I wanted to open something like LPO," he says. "In London, places like this were where I built community. They were gathering points for people with strange and very emotionally-laden passions."

To qualify for the wine merchant licence, Wilson made his own Queensland wine. He reached out to friends Sam Cook and Alistair Reed at Konpira Maru in the Granite Belt, and produced a skin-contact Verdelho called SQUID — named in honour "of the chaotic mess of doing something new with no legs."

L.P.O. Neighbourhood Wine Store. Credit: Matt Pettigrew.

Having opened in March 2025, LPO now occupies a former post office in a strip of shops Wilson calls "quintessential Brisbane suburban beauty." Eight to 12 bottles are open daily for tasting, blurring the line Brisbanites are used to seeing between retail space and bar. "All the wines are there for education, for conversation and for fun," he says. "We're all about discovery, education and that little touch of joy a new experience can bring."

Liz and Ian Trinkle took a similar approach with Wineism, which opened in late 2021 in the Albion Fine Trades precinct. The venue operates as both bar and bottle shop, grounded in Ian's years as a sommelier at Aria Brisbane and Howard Smith Wharves. The industrial-chic design mirrors the neighbourhood's creative edge, while the constantly evolving wine list is built on relationships and taste.

Wineism. Credit: Supplied.

"I think people generally have great palates," Ian Trinkle says. "They can taste the difference between mediocre, good and great once it's in the glass — but they often lack the vocabulary that comes with years of tasting experience. The romance of wine is also its mystery. Part of my job is to make it less mysterious."

Before Wineism, Trinkle was already teaching the internationally recognised WSET courses. That educational approach carries through, whether you're asking about a bottle at the bar or signing up for the weekly wine education classes. "There is so much appetite for education," he says, citing the volume of WSET enquiries he receives every week as proof.

Wineism. Credit: Supplied.

At Craft, education takes the form of weekly tastings that have become part social ritual, part neighbourhood event. "They're equal parts socialising and learning," Harper says. "Lots of chatter, plenty of familiar faces and always a few new ones."

Across the city, independent bottle shops — including Cru Bar & Cellar on James Street, The Reserve Cellar in Wilston, and The Wine Emporium in Newstead — host free weekly tastings of wines, spirits and beers, arguably the best way to expand your palate in Brisbane: follow them on Instagram or subscribe to their newsletters, turn up, talk to the people pouring, and taste what's new.

These shops assume you're curious, not just thirsty. Conversation replaces transaction. They also make it possible for small producers to reach drinkers who might otherwise never discover them.

Cru Bar & Cellar. Credit: Anwyn Howarth.

"Fifteen years ago, Tanqueray No.10 was considered premium," Harper says, emphasising how it now sits among hundreds of local and imported options — a reflection of how tastes have evolved. "Independent bottle shops exist to fulfil the thirst that they've helped create," she continues. "People have become bored with big, familiar brands and are seeking different experiences."

In a state where alcohol consumption is still shaped by legacy licensing policies and supermarket dominance, every independent shop that opens represents both persistence and possibility. These businesses aren't just selling good booze — they're teaching, tasting, and transforming how Brisbane drinks.

Need more vino inspiration? Check out the Best Wine Bars in Melbourne or discover How to Decode a French Wine List.