Ezra's Vibrant New Next-Door Neighbour Raja Celebrates an Underappreciated Side of Indian Cuisine

Ex-Firedoor chef Ahana Dutt heads up this new Kellett Street spot, which combines regional Indian creations with NSW fresh produce.
Ben Hansen
Published on July 18, 2023

The Ezra team is back with an exciting new opening just one door down on Kellett Street. Raja will swing its doors open on Tuesday, July 18 with a menu of flavour-packed eats that go above and beyond what many Sydneysiders have come to expect when visiting an Indian restaurant.

Former Firedoor chef Ahana Dutt leads the kitchen, bringing over the acclaimed steakhouse's passion for produce-driven cooking. Raja works closely with a serious list of dynamite local producers including The Gourmet Goat Lady, Newcastle Greens, Martins Seafood, Crooked Veg and CopperTree Farms in creating a menu that compliments the best seasonal ingredients.

"I've realised that the way I cook now is very much influenced by Firedoor," says Dutt. "I think at its core it's a restaurant that celebrates produce, and the fire just brings out the best of the best produce, if that makes sense."

Dutt has teamed up with Ezra and Raja co-owners Nick and Kirk Mathews-Bowden to conceptualise this celebration of some of the tastiest dishes you've probably never tried. There's galho, a northeast Indian rice soup that shares more similarities to Chinese cooking than your typical Indian affair; albacore 'toast' featuring pathrado, a bread generally found on the Konkani coast that Dutt perfected while working in Mumbai for three years; and goat riblets, which are perfectly paired with the Raja Cutter cocktail.

"I'm Indian and I feel a lot of pride in being about to showcase that food," continues Dutt. "I think there is a lot of food that goes underrepresented — not just here, but even in India, because it is such a big country it's just not actually possible to know everything."

The cocktails have been curated with help from PS40's Michael Chiem, who Dutt previously linked up with during a Firedoor Takeover Tuesday at the CBD cocktail bar. The Raja crew and Chiem have crafted a cocktail list that continues the throughline of Indian spices from the food — with creations like the aforementioned Cutter or a jackfruit old fashioned.

"Raja will tell a story through chic interiors, fresh and light ingredients, elegant cocktails, natural wines, a killer soundtrack and genuine hospitality," said the Mathews-Bowdens.

Find Raja at 1A Kellett Street, Potts Point — open 5.30pm–late Tuesday–Thursday, plus 12–3pm and 5.40pm–late Friday–Sunday.

Images: Nikki To.

Published on July 18, 2023 by Ben Hansen
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