Coming Soon: Central Is Queen Street's New Subterranean Dumpling Bar From the Southside and Rick Shores Team

Eat at Fish Lane's Southside in South Brisbane, or at Rick Shores in Burleigh Heads on the Gold Coast, and you'll likely grab a serving of dumplings with your meal. Some feature lobster and prawns. Some come stuffed with truffle pork or chilli crab. The bite-sized favourite is a staple of both restaurants, but it isn't the star attraction at either. For a place with that focus, the team behind the two beloved eateries is opening Central next.

Set to welcome patrons through the doors from October 2024 in the Piccadilly Arcade building on Queen Street in Brisbane's CBD, this 80-seater subterranean restaurant will indeed be central in the River City. It also takes inspiration from its namesake district in Hong Kong. Southside Executive Chef Benny Lam, one of Central's driving forces alongside Southside's General Manager Maui Manu and co-owner David Flynn, has worked in the favourite tourist destination, and now aims to bring some of the parts of it that he loves to Brisbane.

"The food. The living style. Sometimes I miss it. The rush in that city can be so much, but I really enjoyed that energy, every day," Lam explains.

"The thing about Hong Kong, you eat out just about every night of the week. Maybe you leave the office about 7pm but you don't go home. You go to a dumpling bar or noodle restaurant — they're that third place."

"You walk and you explore and there's stuff happening everywhere and it draws you in," adds Flynn. "We want Central to be that total sensory experience that we love so much about Hong Kong, but channelled into Brisbane, bringing together two cities that we love."

If Central can be that kind of space for Brisbane, the pair will be happy. The menu is set to do its part, with the dim sum range the highlight. Peking duck potstickers and prawn har gao will sit beside chicken steam buns and a wonton soup that's poured at diners' tables — and if you're keen to hang around for a bigger dinner or just have a snack on your way elsewhere, Central can cater for it.

Among the other options, which mix Cantonese meals with western influences: drunken chicken with aged shaoxing rice wine, plus red date and golden sesame; ginger and shallot lobster with e-fu noodles hot out of the wok; and South Australian abalone served with XO butter and smoked bottarga. Smoked foie gras with youtiao, aka Chinese fried dough, plus Davidson plum will equally tempt tastebuds, as will Goolwa pipis  not only with crispy egg noodles but also prosciutto XO sauce. Char siu pork and roasted half duck feature as well — and if you go for another classic in the sweet and sour pork, you'll find it dished up in half a pineapple.

Whatever you pick — dim sum, raw plates, barbecue and more — it'll be whipped up in the venue's raised kitchen. After helping revamp Gerard's Bistro, architect and designer Jared Webb of J.AR OFFICE has turned his attention to Central, where granite and timber will be heroed among exposed-rock walls. The lighting will remain low, befitting the restaurant's underground berth.

Another inspiration comes from one of the space's past guises. Primitif Cafe called it home in the 50s and 60s, with jazz and poetry a feature.

"It will have that feeling you have in Hong Kong, of the basement restaurant. Our motto with Jared has been to 'embrace the cave'. He responded by designing a space with tiered areas that allow people to have different sight lines through the venue with the kitchen and bar as centre stage," advises Flynn.

"It's about capturing that spirit of Primitif, but also the rich, colourful nightclub history of 1970s and 80s Hong Kong — places like Disco Disco, this amazing nightclub that's still remembered fondly in that city."

As for the drinks, sommelier Peter Marchant — also the Group Wine Director — is overseeing a wine list of around 30 drops that can be mixed and matched with the food menu. Available by the glass, half glass and bottle, it's set to span both Australian and overseas tipples, and also vino from producers doing new and exciting things in the industry.

The cocktails will nod to the Hong Kong nightclub scene, as well as to Primitif, including a house harvey wallbanger, a Sichuan Martini Sidecar and a nitrogen-compressed piña colada.

Find Central at 340 Queen Street, Brisbane, from sometime in October — we'll update you when an opening date has been announced. Keep an eye on the venue's website for more details.