Longwang

Overview

If you've ever walked down Edward Street from the Queen Street Mall to the Brisbane City Botanic Gardens, or vice versa, then you've walked past the site of modern-Asian restaurant Longwang from Tassis Group. But, no matter how many times you've passed by, we're guessing that you wouldn't have ever picked that you'd be able to get feasting there — let alone hit up a rooftop bar or cocktail lounge.

What was once a gap beside 144 Edward Street is now an eatery. While it only measures three metres wide, the two-and-a-half-storey spot stretches back 30 metres and can welcome in up to 175 guests for functions. How does a restaurant, even one as slender as this, take over a former alleyway? Courtesy of custom-built digs. Although there's a formal dining room, as well as the sky-high bar and venue for cocktails, being flexible is key — including in its function spaces. The idea is that patrons have a different experience onsite each time that they stop by.

One constant is the culinary guidance of Executive Chef and partner Jason Margaritis (ex- sAme sAme and Donna Chang in Brisbane, and Spice Temple Melbourne and Sydney). His contemporary take on Asian cuisine, inspired by more than 15 years working with the style, heroes seafood, plus a mix of traditional flavours with modern techniques. Think: a live seafood tank with local mud crabs and Tasmanian rock lobsters, whole fried baby barramundi paired with dry red curry snake beans and bug
tail kung pao.

From the range of starters, oysters come with spiced coconut vinegar, the prawn and chive pancake is doused in XO sauce, and the fried calamari features tom yum flavours. Smoked river trout and green papaya are the stars of one of the salads, while a hiramasa kingfish curry is also among the mains.

Dishes that don't involve the ocean's finest include pan-fried wagyu beef dumplings, braised lamb shoulder massaman curry, tea- smoked and fried half duck, and chicken bao — plus pork belly wok-tossed with sichuan pepper, black bean and chilli. Or, opt for a half chicken from the charcoal grill, as coated in tamarind-heavy satay sauce.

For lunch, Longwang does lamb rib sandwiches and dan dan noodles. For dessert, mango pudding, pandan kaya toast and deep-fried ice cream are your choices.

If you're hankering for a banquet experience, a seven-course option is only served before 5.30pm and is available for one person for $58 — or, if you're dining with a date, mate or more, there's $89 and $119 feasts.

Taking care of the wine list to match is Tassis Group Beverage Director and sommelier Ron Almera, who has curated a mix of old- and new-world wines — all specifically to go perfectly with Asian flavours. And as for the cocktails, you can ask for them to be mixed up to suit your tastebuds whether you're hitting the rooftop or the lounge.

While the "long" part of the restaurant's moniker might sound apt given the site's narrow dimensions, the name actually hails from Chinese mythology. Also known as the Dragon King or Dragon God, Longwang commands the seas, so the title reflects the menu's focus.

Images: Markus Ravik.