Any Melburnian has made at least one pilgrimage to Lygon Street for old-school Italian food. At the heart of it all is La Spaghettata, one of the oldest trattorias on the vibrant strip — or 'pasta house', as the owners call it — where the Cattafi family has been serving handmade pasta and Sicilian hospitality for the past 45 years. Today, the institution remains an unapologetic bastion of old-school Carlton dining. Marked by a proud neon sign announcing its status as Australia's first pasta house, the double-storey Victorian terrace opens into a cosy farmhouse-style dining room. Upstairs, a coveted terrace balcony is the best vantage point for people-watching over a spritz or two. The legacy tratt is known for its customisable homestyle pasta: six pasta shapes can be paired with a staggering 22 sauce lineup. Play it classic by matching creamy gorgonzola sauce with ridged penne, or opt for a briny spaghetti vongole (although the kitchen is more than happy to infuse the clams into a risotto instead). Coat spinach-infused fettuccine with nutty pesto for a hit of colour, or bring a salty twist to ravioli with a punchy puttanesca. Groups are well-catered for with a $55 platter featuring a trio of the table's picks, plus a friendly BYO policy to keep the day affordable. Gluten-conscious diners can get in on the fun, too — wheat-free penne is available for a $1 supplement. Spaghettata is an Italian term that means late-night parties or gatherings, and 'spaghettata'-style dishes run throughout a menu of regional Italian dishes. Rustic Spaghettata oysters are doused in a pomodoro sauce. The Spaghettata chicken is tossed in jus and topped with prosciutto and peppers, while Spaghettata beef features mushrooms and olives; both come with seasonal vegetables. Images: supplied Like what you see? Subscribe to the Concrete Playground newsletter to get stories just like these straight to your inbox.