You can't go far in Melbourne without spotting a pub, but around the turn of the 19th century, the pocket of South Melbourne was inundated with watering holes. Through it all, The George has called the corner of Cecil Street home, opening its doors in 1865 and proving popular with local council workers who kept the burgeoning city's utilities turning over. Now, almost 160 years into its story, this neighbourhood icon is embarking on its next chapter. Guided by seasoned publican Scott Connolly (The Orrong Hotel, Healesville Hotel), The George has undergone a significant transformation that has seen the venue return to its former glory. Drawing inspiration from the suburb's heritage architecture and more than a little nostalgia for classic Australian pubs, The George's new look leverages its existing character and combines it with a mix of polished furnishings and fixtures. "I come from a long line of publicans — my great-grandmother was the second woman in Victoria to get a liquor licence," says Connolly. "I'm extremely proud to breathe new life into The George Hotel while celebrating the pub's rich history throughout the South Melbourne community." Downstairs, the inviting front public bar resonates with the warmth of the great pubs of old, where high tables and at-the-bar service don't mess with a tried-and-true formula. Connected to the bistro-style dining room, guests can expect an elevated experience served around the cosy comfort of a fireplace. Then, a leafy courtyard and street-side tables offer the chance to soak up the sunshine and the comings and goings of the adjacent South Melbourne Market. Upstairs, a private function space is primed for celebratory gatherings. As for the food menu, The George features modern takes on classic pub cuisine. Think starters such as house-made focaccia, sesame prawn toast with charcoal mayo and crispy shallots, and plump chicken bao. Larger options step things up, including a 12-hour roasted lamb shoulder served with white bean puree and pistachio salsa verde, and a vego-friendly roasted zucchini, mushroom and ricotta lasagne. The steak option is also enticing, with a 300-gram sirloin served with chips and a choice of peppercorn, red wine or creamy mushroom sauce. The drinks front is also solid, with draught beers on tap alongside bottled and canned beers from Peroni, Bodriggy, Young Henrys and more. Meanwhile, a concise wine list highlights local producers, while a cocktail menu features a selection of spritz and classic options, like espresso martinis and margaritas. Like all good locals, The George's weekly specials are bound to pique interest, with parma and pot nights, steak sessions and all-day roasts on the weekend that keep alive what makes a neighbourhood public house so special. "I think what sets a good pub apart from its neighbours is having a really strong food offering — nothing overcomplicated, but a handful of classic pub dishes executed to perfection," says Connolly. "We're thrilled to be part of this community and we hope The George Hotel will continue to hold a firm place in the hearts of South Melbourne locals and welcome a new generation of pub-goers."