Overview
Eating hot dogs New York-style means tucking into dirty water dogs. The liquid they're heated in comes seasoned and spiced, hence the name, and they're one of the Big Apple's street-vendor specialities. So, when restaurateurs Bonnie Shearston and Tom Sanceau decided to open a NYC-inspired burger bar at Portside, and to add more than just burgs to the menu, of course they ensured that the humble dirty water dog is on offer. Dumbo's features two franks on soft buns topped with onions and yellow mustard.
First announced mid-2024 and now open in Hamilton, Dumbo wears its love of New York right there in its name. Its moniker hails from the Brooklyn neighbourhood, aka Down Under Manhattan Bridge Overpass. The food naturally follows suit, serving up more dishes that'll make you think that you've headed to the US — all in a 121-square-metre space opposite 2023 arrival Fosh.
The combination of NYC street food and burgers, a laneway, and Shearston and Sanceau first gave Brisbane Red Hook, with the Gresham Lane favourite launching in 2014 and satisfying River City tastebuds ever since. Accordingly, the pair are in familiar territory, just in a different part of town. They're asking one of the best questions that the hospitality industry can inspire, too. What tops one eatery from the duo throwing it back to the Big Apple? Two, naturally.
Also behind Ruby, My Dear in Newstead — and with a past lineup of ventures spanning Coppa Spuntino, London Fields, Canvas Club and Pollen as well — Shearston and Sanceau have joined the influx of venues that are making Portside Wharf their home. The inner-north precinct's current $20-million revamp also saw Rise Bakery, Rosé Gelateria and Birds Nest Yakitori set up shop at the Hamilton spot in 2023. Portside Social, a gastropub from the Newstead Social crew, is a recent addition. The Ballpark Portside is another, with the fellow American-themed hangout, which features its own batting cages, also dishing up Dumbo's burgers.
That gives diners after a taste of Shearston and Sanceau's latest joint two Hamilton spots to visit. At Dumbo itself, not just NYC but 90s NYC is the key influence — although with meals named Grandmaster Flash (a burger with beef, lettuce, tomato, ketchup and smokey mayonnaise) and Uptown Funk (beef, cheese, gorgonzola, bacon, caramelised onions and Dumbo's own sticky glaze), it's also taking cues from decades before and after.
For both dining in and taking away, the menu spans Brooklyn cheeseburgers, plus the namesake burg (with double smashed patties, grilled onions, American cheese, special sauce and pickles). All beef burgers come with a choice of smashed or thick patties. There's four types of chicken burger as well, made with either grilled or southern fried chook, plus two plant-based burgers — one named after Wu-Tang Clan's RZA.
Or, opt for either chicken and cauliflower wings, mac 'n' cheese balls, fries done three ways (salt and vinegar, bacon and cheese, and chilli cheese and brisket), poppy lox or pastrami bagels, and chopped beef and cheese heroes. With a fish sando, chicken and waffles, and a champignon po'boy also on the lineup, there's plenty to tempt tastebuds. And that's before picking from ice cream cookie sandos, waffles and thick malt shakes for dessert.
Craft beers from both local and international breweries will help wash down your meal. Among the sips, so will spirits and wine.
"The concept behind Dumbo is to bring a slice of New York's bustling laneway and bar culture to Brisbane's Northshore. Guests can expect a more-sophisticated and elevated take on a traditional burger restaurant, with its design echoing the charm of New York's 90s dining scene, and providing a welcoming space for people to catch-up, unwind and connect," explained Shearston when the venue was initially announced.
"New York street food and burgers have always had a way of bringing people together, which is what we are wanting to achieve at Portside Wharf with Dumbo."
"We have operated Dumbo's sister venue Red Hook in the CBD on Creek Street for more than a decade. We wanted to continue Red Hook's legacy and build on its offering, which has been loved by so many people over the years, by opening a similar concept restaurant with a unique style and flair," added Sanceau.
Find Dumbo at 37c Harbour Road, Hamilton — open from 11.30am–9pm Monday–Thursday, 11.30am–11pm Friday–Saturday and 11.30am–4pm Sunday. Head to the eatery's website for further details.