Contemporary fusion cuisine is not only often tasty, but a reasonable extension of Australia's diverse gastronomic history. Even dishes thought idiosyncratic to a particular country are rarely free of intercultural influence. All that said and done, sometimes it is nice to sit down to a meal that resists modern interference. Traditional dishes are not necessarily always improved by radical reinventions or reimaginings – something to which Brisbane's Hosokawa can attest.
Not lavishly or even traditionally decorated, it is not for the décor that locals flock to this small Hamilton Japanese restaurant. Not exactly a sake bar, Hosokawa offers only a few local and Japanese beers, some wines and a modest selection of sake and umeshu. But, there are plenty of authentic izakaya-style dishes to accompany them: teriyaki, chirashi and karaage to name a few. The nasu dengaku is a real standout - half an eggplant grilled with sesame and miso sauce - sweet and crisp on top, with velvety molten eggplant inside.
The portion sizes are surprisingly generous, given the prices, and the standard accompaniments of rice, white miso soup, and assorted pickles are readily available.
Though these options do not disappoint, they are not the main drawcard. The sashimi and sushi are without fault – simple, expertly handled and lovingly presented. The nori is crisp, the rice well seasoned, and the seafood is fresh and expertly sliced.
In a country where Japanese food is often associated with either sushi chains or omakases, Hosokawa offers a very welcome alternative.