A Wine Lover's Weekender in the Southern Highlands
The place to go when you long to sip pinot noir by a crackling wood fire.
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With its rugged scenery, lush waterfalls and cool climate wines, the Southern Highlands is like the Blue Mountains and the Hunter Valley combined, but without the crowds. One reason it's still a bit of a secret is that, for a wine region, it's young. "Official status" was only granted in 1999.
However, the oldest winery in the area, Joadja, was set up back in the 1980s. And since then, more than 60 vineyards and 16 wineries have joined it. At an altitude of more than 600 metres, the area specialises in cool climate varieties, like pinot noir and riesling. Here's your guide to wining your way through a weekend in the Southern Highlands.
DRINK
For consistently cracking boutique wines, head to Tertini (Kells Creek Rd, Mittagong; (02) 4878 5213; 10am-5pm Thu-Mon or by appointment), which has been winning awards since dropping its first bottle ten years ago (the 2005 riesling). Unassuming yet skilled wine maker Jonathan Holgate is committed to old-fashioned processes. That means hand pruning, hand picking and low cropping. He produces in small batches and experiments with alternative varieties, such as arneis and lagrein.
Meanwhile, at the majestic Centennial Vineyards (252 Centennial Rd, Bowral; (02) 4861 8722; 10am-5pm daily), on the outskirts of Bowral, the cellar door affords dazzling panoramas over 80 acres of vineyards, where chardonnay, riesling and pinot noir as well as exotic varieties like albariño, pinot meunier and tempranillo grow. At 760 metres above sea level, the fruit ripens gradually and is all the richer for it. To linger over the views, stay for a meal at the onsite restaurant.
Further south, near the historic, haunted town of Berrima, there's Joadja (cnr Greenhills and Joadja Roads, Berrima; (02) 4878 5236). A self-guided tour takes you through the winery and gardens, where you're welcome to picnic, or, in cold weather, stay inside sampling wine next to the wood fire.
Other wineries to visit include Artemis, the home of Sun Shack Cider (46 Sir Charles Moses Lane, Mittagong; (02) 48721311; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat-Sun and public holidays); McVitty (434 Wombeyan Caves Rd, Mittagong; (02) 4878 5044; 10am-5pm weekends); Eling Forest (12587 Hume Highway, Sutton Forest; (02) 4878 9499; 10:30am-4:30pm daily); and St Maur (Old Argyle Rd, Exeter; (02) 4883 4401; 10:30am-4:30pm Thu-Mon). For the official Southern Highlands wine trail map, visit the Southern Highlands Wine website.
EAT
There are two hatted restaurants in the Southern Highlands. Biota (18 Kangaloon Rd, Bowral; (02) 4862 2005; lunch Fri-Mon; dinner daily), awarded Regional Restaurant of the Year in 2014 and 2015, has two. The focus is on local produce, grown in the restaurant's onsite kitchen garden and combined in creative ways. If you don't want to sit down to a full meal, try the rather unusual bar menu, featuring dishes like smoked South Coast oyster with nasturtium, and pork parts with citrus caramel. Then there's the one-hatted Eschalot (24 Old Hume Highway, Berrima; (02) 4877 1977; lunch Thurs-Sun; dinner Wed-Sun), housed in an atmospheric sandstone heritage building.
Alternatively, to mix some reading with your dining, try Bendooley Estate (3020 Old Hume Highway, Berrima; (02) 4877 2235; lunch daily), where you can wander through the Berkelouw Book Barn and visit another cellar door. Or go for some excellent Italian at the family-owned Onesta Cucina (5 Boolwey St, Bowral; (02) 4861 6620; lunch Thu-Sat; dinner Mon-Sat).
STAY
The Highlands' rich-and-famous experience (a la Nicole Kidman, Jimmy Barnes and Peter Garrett, all of whom own estates in the area) is on offer at the five star Milton Park Country House Hotel and Spa. Set on 300 acres of hilltop woodland, it comes with the works: a grand mansion, world-famous landscaped gardens, deluxe rooms with four-poster beds, marble bathrooms, a spa and, of course, helicopter and limo transfers.
For a stay less grandiose yet still luxurious, historic and charming, there's the 170-year-old Fitzroy Inn (1 Ferguson Crescent, Mittagong; (02) 4872 3457). Meanwhile, Biota is home to some relaxed, contemporary rooms, from where you can access the restaurant's 3 acres of grounds, complete with duck pond.
DO
Possibly the most fun way to see the Southern Highlands is from the back of a shiny red Boom Trike, with Highland Trike Tours (0412 555 757 or 0419 461 106) Choose a ready-made tour or design your own, incorporating as many wineries as you can handle. To move at a slower pace — while seeing some of the region's best scenery — hire a bicycle at Ye Olde Bicycle Shoppe (11 Church Street, Bundanoon; (02) 4883 6043; 8.30am–4pm Sun–Fri; 8:30am-5pm Sat). From there, an easygoing, 12 kilometre circuit visits 12 lookouts, as well as waterfalls and swimming holes.
Your weekend art fix can be had at the Milk Factory Gallery (33 Station St, Bowral; (02) 4862 1077; 10am-5pm daily). This enormous, airy space with its 7 metre high ceilings incorporates a variety of rooms and a dynamic contemporary exhibition program. For design, pop into the Sturt Gallery (cnr Range Rd and Waverley Parade, Mittagong; (02) 4860 2083; 10am-5pm daily), which was established in 1941 and is the oldest craft and design centre in Australia. The grounds are beautiful and an onsite cafe is open Wednesday to Sunday.
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