Clover

Overview

This 50-seater wine bar has taken residence in a former light fitting store on Swan Street, and prides itself on a minimal intervention wine list that spotlights French, Italian and, to a lesser extent, Australian producers — courtesy of wine aficionado Lyndon Kubis who operated Collingwood's The Moon and The Alps in Prahran.

A long communal table occupies centrestage at Clover, with soothing brown tones and wine bottle-lined walls accentuating the cosy feel.

'Food cooked solely over fire' is the drawcard at Clover, with a menu designed by owner and chef Charley Snadden-Wilson of Etta and Embla fame.

What that means in practice? The highly vaunted housemade honey bread – described as part-sourdough, part-Shokupan – slathered with cultured butter. A bacon sandwich. Raw fish with smoked orange and chilli. Pork chop served alongside smoked pear and mustard. Smoked potato with savoury butter. The word 'smoked' appears plenty on the menu, testament to the brick woodfired oven and grill that's the centrepiece of the open kitchen.

Warmer months are for settling into Clover's brick-paved courtyard and enjoying some of the meticulously curated cocktail selections.