Beautiful Jim Key

Overview

Brunswick adds another to a string of recently opened, intriguing new spots. Beautiful Jim Key, situated in Jewell Station Village, calls itself a neighbourhood cafe and luncheonette inspired by the "fantastic and the curious." 

The new cafe is from Priyam Chovhan and partner Josh Murphy, an experienced restaurateur who has left his mark across many of Melbourne's sought-after spots, including Builders Arms, Cumulus Inc and Harley and Rose. In building Beautiful Jim Key, they sought to create a space where thoughtful hospitality and everyday pleasures were the focus. Chovhan says, "We're excited to become part of the rhythm of Brunswick." 

The venue's namesake is, surprisingly, an early 20th century performing horse, famous for his intelligence and tricks. The story goes that his owner noted how observant and clever his horse was, and so he began to teach him letters and numbers. They went on to tour America together, even appearing as one of the most popular attractions at the 1904 World Fair and performing for the president. Most importantly, the horse was only ever treated with care and kindness. Murphy and Chovhan intend to reflect this spirit of playfulness, curiosity and quiet wonder in their venue.  

To ease in, they are starting with breakfast and lunch, with an aim of introducing a limited dinner service in the future. The menu plays into the venue's ethos of whimsy and joy. For brekkie, there's french toast with Montenegro, blood orange and crème fraiche, congee with shiitake and egg or scallops, and curried soft-boiled eggs with golden mango chutney. There's also a broccoli toasted sandwich with pecorino, chilli and anchovies, or a traditional big breakfast with sausage, bacon, beans, tomato and eggs. 

Come lunch, the menu shifts to considered large and small plates, primed for a cocktail or glass of wine. Start with Appellation oysters with cultured butter and hot sauce, black pepper salami with guindillas and baguette and njuda gougeres with thyme honey. Order a glass of Gamay to accompany your spiced roast duck Maryland with baby turnips and plum, don't miss the lamb schnitzel with green sauce and fennel salad, and finish with a hazelnut and chocolate éclair. 

Images: Kristoffer Paulsen.