Overview
What had you done with your life by the time you were 22? For most of us, it didn't include training abroad, publishing a best-selling cookbook, opening multiple businesses and competing in a huge televised competition. But it is just some of what Morgan Hipworth has already achieved before even getting close to his mid-20s. What an overachiever.
The Aussie-born, French-trained pâtissier already has two Morgan Bistro sites in Melbourne selling his famed doughnuts alongside a heap of other sweet treats. Last year, he starred in Dessert Masters, competing with some of the country's top pastry chefs. And now, he's tackling the all-day dining scene in Fitzroy with his new restaurant Maven by Morgan.
For this venture, Hipworth is joined by co-head chef Daniel Neytha (ex-Lona Misa), who he's worked with to create an all-day dining menu that champions both European and South American cuisines.
All the Aussie brunch favourites feature on the menu from Friday–Sunday, including avo on toast, eggs benny and chilli eggs. But standing out among these options is the duck and waffle. Hipworth and Neytha put a crispy duck leg, fried egg and fermented ginger and honey glaze on top of a crunchy sweet potato waffle for those seeking something a little different for brunch.
Come dinner time, from Tuesday–Saturday guests can get around a selection of small and large dishes made for sharing. Neytha's South American touches shine through in dishes like the slow-roasted lamb shoulder paired with roasted eggplants and a vibrant salsa verde and the market fish ceviche served with potato puree and corn salsa.
More Euro-centric bites include the pork cotoletta and the pistachio and zucchini pesto pasta that comes with squash and stracciatella. Pair these with a tight selection of European and Aussie wines, some signature cocktails and a stack of spirits and beer.
And this wouldn't be a Hipworth venture without banging desserts. There's a classic Basque cheesecake and roasted fig and apple frangipane tart, plus a decadent tableside-served Biscoff tiramisu.
But Maven by Morgan highlights how Hipworth has no desire to be seen as purely a pastry chef. At 22, he's already looking to the future and expanding on his brand. We're intrigued to see what he's got up his sleeves for us next.
You'll find Maven by Morgan at 402 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, open for brunch from Friday–Sunday and dinner from Tuesday–Saturday. For more details, head to the restaurant's website.