Overview
The site of an old 1920s social club for workers in the CBD has reopened as a contemporary and comforting Italian restaurant. The Hardware Club, opening on Hardware Lane, is the maiden venture for childhood friends Nicola Dusi and Andrea Ceriani, who arrived in Melbourne from Verona, Italy, nine years ago. Their collective resume boasts stints at the likes of D.O.C Pizzeria, Baby Pizza, Chin Chin and +39 Pizzeria — so you know this one is going to be good.
The intimate 65-seater combines elements of a neighbourhood Italian restaurant and an 80s household kitchen — homely, but refined — with marble bench tops, green banquettes, wooden tables and white tiles. A bar overlooking the laneway takes pride of place in the front space and is primed for after-work cocktails and snacks.
Speaking of food, Head Chef Dusi has created a menu designed to comfort and nurture, rather than push too many boundaries. A daytime offering features small bites — think, 16-month prosciutto di Parma served with pickles, and buffalo mozzarella with lashings of olive oil — alongside classic pizzas, a handful of mains and a rotating lineup of pasta. You'll find the likes of amatriciana starring pork jowl and pecorino, seafood spaghetti and a milk bolognese rigatoni.
Josh Robenstone
Meanwhile, the dinner menu covers all the bases, running from snacks through to heartier main plates. Small plates like fried salt and pepper squid, and roasted marrow bones teamed with salsa verde make a good play for the after-work crowd, while those with bigger appetites can get stuck into dishes like an osso buco ravioli, and baked rainbow trout matched with crème fraîche and Yarra Valley roe. There's even an entire coil of Italian fennel and chilli sausage, with silverbeet and chilli oil.
Sticking with the homely Italian theme, the drinks list showcases a diverse spread of Italian drops, alongside Aussie and imported brews, and a lineup of classic Italian cocktails. The upcoming summer months will be all about the negronis, Venetian-style spritzes and refreshing serves of Montenegro and tonic.
Find The Hardware Club at 43 Hardware Lane, Melbourne. It's open daily from 12–3pm and from 5.30pm till late.
Images: Josh Robenstone. Updated: November 1, 2019.