A Weekender's Guide to Mildura
The outback town, on the banks of the Murray River, first made its mark on the Australian art scene in the '60s and '70s, with a legacy continuing today through galleries, public art and major events.
Long before Sculpture by the Sea, SWELL Sculpture Festival and the Lorne Sculpture Biennale, there was the Mildura Sculpture Triennial. It was Australia's first-ever event for large-scale contemporary sculptures — and, in the 1960s and '70s, drew thousands of artists, students and travellers to Mildura, a town on the edge of the outback, 600 kilometres northwest of Melbourne.
Inspired by open skies, endless plains and the mighty Murray River, these artists pushed the boundaries of sculpture as we then knew it, delving into earth art, performance, site-specific works and ephemeral installations.
Today, the Biennale's legacy lives on in Mildura's art scene — through galleries, public art and big events. In April 2025, English-Australian artist Bruce Munro arrived with Trail of Lights.
To experience this legacy for ourselves, we escaped to Mildura for a few days. Along the way, we long lunched on the river, cruised on a 19th century paddle steamer, wandered around pretty satellite villages, stayed at a California-inspired hotel, and ate more than our fair share of juicy oranges — Mildura is famous for growing them.
Image credit: Supplied
Feasting on Arts, Culture and History
Our adventures began on the Murray, which runs through Mildura. Just downstream, it meets the Darling, forming the fourth biggest river system in the world. So, it makes sense that Munro — who loves significant sites from Uluru to Salisbury Cathedral — would choose Mildura for one of his monumental works.
We crossed the river at sunset onto Lock Island. As the sky darkened, thousands upon thousands of tiny lights started to flicker among the grass and rocks and trees — each gradually dimming, then brightening, like fireflies. A web of pathways let us walk beside them, while the weir gushed eerily in the distance, then through them, where they seemed to continue beyond the horizon into infinity.
Unlike other, more sensational light spectacles, Trail of Lights was a dreamy, meditative experience — made all the more powerful by having the island more or less to ourselves. "People react in all kinds of different ways; some people have told me it made them cry," a hotel owner later told us. Soon, Munro will bring a second work – Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra – to the nearby ancient Perry Sandhills.
Image credit: Mildura Arts Centre Facebook
Lock Island is ten minutes' walk from Mildura Arts Centre, where the Sculpture Park lets you travel back in time to the Triennial. Highlights include Ron Robertson-Swann's Beethoven, Simon Hopkinson and Gary Willis's Work–Art, and John Robinson's Mortality. While you're there, wander through Rio Vista, a 19th century mansion built by WB Chaffey and his wife, Heather. Chaffey and his brother, George, were Canadian engineers who brought irrigation to Mildura, so we have them to thank for most of Australia's supply of grapes and oranges.
Other spots to get your art fix in and around town include NAP Contemporary, the Mural Walking Trail, and, for silo art, the nearby rural localities of Werrimull and Walpeup.
Image credit: Discover Mildura
Image credit: Supplied
Image credit: Discover Mildura
Image credit: Mildura Boathouse Facebook
Where to Eat and Drink
Having boated and strolled beside the river, we were ready to eat beside it. So, we headed to the Mildura Boathouse Eatery & Bar, a big, bright space splashed in aquamarine and white on the waterfront. For the best views, claim a table on the deck under a big umbrella. Our favourite on the local produce-fuelled menu was the mushies topped with goat's cheese, truffle mousse and poached eggs on bread baked 15 minutes' drive away at Gio's in Redcliff. But the brekkie roll packed with egg, bacon and cheddar and slathered in secret sauce came a close second.
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Another beautiful place for riverside feasting is Trentham Estate, a winery on the Murray, 20 minutes' drive east of the CBD. Whether you sit in the glass-walled dining room or on the verandah, you'll be gazing over dreamy water views, foregrounded by green grass and shady gums. We settled in for a long lunch, travelling from a baked scallop-prawn tart, to pan-fried salmon with basil pesto on sweet potato mash, to an exquisite lemon meringue tart with berry coulis and vanilla ice cream. To get even closer to the water, opt for a picnic on the lawn, with a cheese platter followed by chocolate fudge cake. Either way, there's plenty to explore on the wine list, from the budget-friendly The Family range to the award-winning Reserves.
Image credit: 400 Gradi website
Back in town, we loved 400 Gradi, a Melbourne export which opened in Mildura in 2022, for its flash-fried calamari, light prawn and zucchini white pizza, rich mushroom pappardelle and irresistible tiramisu — all served in a slick, grand space, with excellent service.
Also worth checking out are SteamPunk and BLK MLK for coffee, Brother Chris and Twenty Seven for brunch, Oak Valley and Capogreco for wine tasting, The Spanish Grill for top-notch steaks, Baghdad Kitchen for charcoal-grilled delights, and, for a legendary multi-course dinner, Stefano's.
Image credit: Supplied
Where to Sleep
A drive down Mildura's main street gives the impression the town is home to more motor inns per capita than maybe any other town in Australia. We don't have any stats on that, but we can tell you we were happy with our decision to opt for Kar-Rama. Opened in February 2025, it takes inspiration from California, in its breezy palm trees, white deck chairs and sparkling heated pool. The rooms — decked in pastel shades — come with king-sized beds draped in top-shelf linen, excellent showers, comfy Bemboka robes, a complimentary minibar, Nespresso coffee machines and Leif toiletries. Hot tip: for extra space and light, ask for a room on the first floor and consider paying a bit extra for a deluxe studio.
Other inviting sleepovers in and around town include Indulge Apartments (for a touch of luxury), All Seasons Houseboats (for more time on the river) and Mungo Lodge (for deeper exploration of Mungo National Park).
Image credit: Supplied
Concrete Playground travelled to Mildura with the support of Visit Victoria.
