Overview
We've compiled a list of delicious Greek food in Sydney for you, and we've done it at great risk to ourselves — the last guy who swiped secrets about Greek dishes wound up trapped in a puddle for eternity. It's said that Tantalus was invited for dinner with Zeus on Mount Olympus and liked the gods' ambrosia and nectar so much he pocketed some to take home and share with friends. Zeus was so mad, he made Tantalus stand forever in a still pool of water, just unable to reach a branch laden with fruit drooping down overhead.
So if we do get busted for bringing you this list, at least come visit and bring a souvlaki, okay koukla mou?
The Corinthian
The skeletal lamb heads, glaring sightless out from the lit-up window bain-marie, are the first things you'll see and the last thing I want to think about. This place has presided over Marrickville since the '80s and has all the old wood-panelling, plastic tablecloths, faded photos and over-it attitude to prove it. The staff are actually from ancient Greece. Go here for the chill, old-school charm and hearty, veteran versions of all the classics.
Lunch Tues - Sun, Dinner Tues - Sun; 283 Marrickville Road, Marrickville; (02) 9569 7084
Anatoli
This new kid, by contrast, is brimming with imagination and energy. Really — I could not, in good conscience, send you to The Eastern otherwise. Anatoli is one of a swag of new spots recently opened in the Bondi Junction club and has convinced now-me to revisit what teenage-me left behind. The whole place has been reinvented and the Anatoli fit-out is totally glam; there are no sheep skulls oozing up this marble bar top. There's a mouthwatering range of meat and fish, and the vegetarian options not only exist but look delicious; a whole roast artichoke comes sitting on lemon butter, while charred okra holds up against ballsy garlic and anchovies.
Lunch Fri - Sun; Dinner Tues - Sun; 500 Oxford Street, Bondi; (02) 9387 7828; anatolirestaurant.com.au
The Animal
If Dionysus was propping up any bar in Sydney, it'd probably be this one at Keystone's tricked-up Newtown Hotel. They actually serve wine on tap here, and I imagine the god of that grape juice would be pulling up a chair. If you don't eat no meat, the coal roast suckling lamb is literally the best thing ever. There's a different meat roast every day (goat on Thursdays!) and they go all-out for Sunday with all the trimmings. The dessert list stretches a bit beyond baklava, too. I'd pop in for a wine and a cheese plate with fig jam and pickled carrots.
Lunch Sat - Sun; Dinner Mon - Sun; 174 King St, Newtown; (02) 9557 6399; newtownhotel.com.au
Steki Taverna
This low-lit charmer has been tucked down a Newtown side street for around three decades now, and it's earned its regulars. Those who go, go often. There are no surprises on the menu; it's full of usual suspects, and they're usually done damn well. There's live, loud Greek music on Friday and Saturday nights and lots of dancing, which is the sort of thing I would not want anything to do with if everyone didn't look like they were having just so much fun.
Dinner Wed - Sun; 2 O'Connell St, Newtown; (02) 9516 2191; www.stekitaverna.com.au
The Apollo
The Apollo is tucked away down in Potts Point, and it's nice to stroll down Macleay Street to get there considering you'll be ordering two of everything on the menu (you shouldn't order that much, I'm kidding) (but you should). Jonathan Barthelmess (Manly Pavilion) and Sam Christie (Longrain) have teamed up to deliver a bright little neighbourhood favourite with food that feels both classic and contemporary. Go the saganaki cheese with honey and oregano, the taramasalata dip sprinkled with fresh mullet roe, the rich moussaka (and everything else) (twice). Finish up with fresh chunks of watermelon marinated in ouzo and topped with lemon granita and make plans to return.
Lunch Fri - Sun; Dinner Mon - Sun; 44 Macleay Street, Potts Point; (02) 8354 0888; www.theapollo.com.au
Xanthi
They had me at 'ouzo trolley'. The aniseed spirit is actually way too strong for me, but I am all about unusual alcohol delivery methods (see: wine on tap; my enthusiasm for, above). There are 20 varieties available on the pimped-out little cart if you are ready for that jelly. Xanthi owner David Tsirekas earned a lot of fans in Petersham with Perama before setting up shop above all the heels and handbags in Westfield Sydney. Say yiasou to the peppered figs in warm honey, the pork belly baklava and the rabbit stifado — flaky strips of meat spiked with red wine and cinnamon, wrapped up in crinkly house-made filo pastry.
Lunch and dinner Mon - Sun; Level 6, Westfield Sydney, cnr Pitt Street Mall and Market Street, CBD; (02) 9232 8535; www.xanthi.com.au
Parea
This place, more than any other on this list, nails the atmosphere I've experienced at big, fat gatherings of Greek family friends: fun, friendly and loud. Your parea is your extended family — old friends you round up with whom to laugh, argue, unwind and, most importantly, eat yourself stupid. This suburban favourite gets so packed later in the week they've extended into a takeaway joint over the road. Back in the original you can watch through a big window as the cooks carve the juicy meat up over hot coals, and shout as loud as you want to your friends; you won’t hear them otherwise, in here. You know what you'll find on the menu, and I know it's really good.
Lunch Sat - Sun; Dinner Tues - Sun; 46 Rocky Point Road, Kogarah; (02) 9588 7887; www.parea.com.au
The Yeeros Shop
Don't be fooled by the shop's name, or the ostensible topic of this article: this place is just about the hot chips. Maybe they do some Greek food, I don't know, juicy, fresh kebabs with chilli and tangy tzatziki and whatever. You can order that if you still have room after eating all the chips. I like them salty and a bit squishy, but you can ask the guys behind the counter to fry them to a crisp if you want. I can understand Zeus not wanting to share.
Lunch Tues - Sun, Dinner Tues - Sun; 431 Illawarra Road, Marrickville; (02) 9559 1167
Top image: Anatoli.
By Jacqueline Breen and Roslyn Helper.