Mister Percy

An intimate inner city wine bar with a killer drinks list hidden in a former wool store.
Concrete Playground
March 26, 2024

Overview

Pyrmont's not exactly known for its food and drinks scene but if you know where to look there are gems to be found. Mister Percy is one such place. An inviting wine bar and restaurant hidden within the sandstone walls of the Ovolo 1888, Mister Percy has had a few iterations over the few years that it's been open but the seductive mood and inspired wine list remain the common threads.

Mister Percy is named in honour of Percy Ewart, a former wool classer who worked in the site's original wool store — hints of which remain among the blend of leather, marble, plush fabrics and paintings, paying homage to its history while simultaneously celebrating the contemporary.

If you settle in for dinner, the offering from the kitchen is a blend of Mediterranean cuisine, Japanese flavours and mainstays of contemporary Australian menus (I see you burrata and flash fried calamari!). You don't have to skim far on the menu, created by Head Chef Carmela Cordero, to encounter the influence of Japan — from the soy mirin glaze on the risotto to the miso dashi sauce served with the grilled fish.

The snack selection of the menu is a particular stand-out for accompanying an evening experimenting with the wine list (more on that shortly) but another option is the four-course 'feed me' menu which,  at $75 per person with paired wines for an additional $50, is a pretty reasonable decision-free date night.

But ultimately, at its heart and in execution, Mister Percy is a wine bar and it is the drinks list that makes the biggest impact thanks to the thoughtful curation of Sommelier Luis Manzanares.

The wine list is surprisingly dynamic with heaps of unexpected drops you rarely see in a standard hotel bar, including a great range of Spanish wines, skin contact by the glass and bottle, and some lesser-represented Australian producers.

Expect to kick back with excellent drops like the 2021 Neldner Road shiraz or the elegant Remelluri reserva tempranillo, many of which are available by the glass. Impress your date with your own selections or leave yourself in Mr Manzanares's safe hands.

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