Yarraville continues to grow its food-and-drink offering, with Bar Gabi, the sibling of sister fine-dining restaurant Navi, now open. Named for Gabija, the Baltic spirit of fire and protector of hearth and home, Bar Gabi centers on wood-fired cooking, seasonal dishes and drinks, and a laid-back, fuss-free atmosphere. "We still serve the level of cocktails that we would at Navi, but we want somewhere where people can hang and relax. It's not dumbed down; it's just a bit more casual," says Julian Hills, who has opened Bar Gabi with his partner Georgia Roberts, group beverage manager Mirian Walhütter and her partner, Paul Turner, who also happens to be the chef. Turner has his work cut out for him in the kitchen, manning a 700-kilogram Brazilian grill with 32 rotisserie spits. Almost everything from the kitchen will carry the grill's smoky char, from potato damper with whipped wattleseed-miso emulsion to ox tongue with blackened finger lime glaze, and smoky pickled mussels with potato cakes. The drinks, too, will carry the signature deep flavour of smple with the likes of a paperbark-smoked take on a tequila sunrise, and a Bloody Mary amped up with smoked celery salt. The two-level space, designed by Hills' brother Damon of Finnis Architects, leans into 1970s nostalgia with banquette seating, chocolate tones, stained-glass accents, and custom crockery from Robert Gordon. With space for 60 guests, Bar Gabi also offers a private dining room and bookable spaces for functions and events. Images: Kit Edwards. Like what you see? Subscribe to the Concrete Playground newsletter to get stories just like these straight to your inbox.