Overview
Back in 2012, Ananas made a name for its glamorous French brasserie, pairing plenty of champagne with an eclectic fitout that was part Parisian flea market, part Art Nouveau time capsule. Yet just four years later, the bustling restaurant shifted its famous pineapple lamps — ananas is French for the sweet, spiky fruit — from The Rocks to Darling Harbour.
Now, Hunter St. Hospitality (24 York, Sahtein, Bar Patron) is bringing Ananas back to its original stomping ground, building on the initial concept with a few fresh ideas. Leading the kitchen will be executive chef Mike Flood, who previously helped Felix become one of Sydney's more admired French brasseries. Alongside head chef Christian Jones, diners can expect the reimagined Ananas to lean a little more casual than its inaugural fine-dining appeal.
"This isn't about recreating a Paris corner exactly as it is," says Flood. "The menu draws from across France and shifts with the seasons. For launch, the menu leans more towards a classic Paris brasserie mood — deeper sauces, butter, a bit more richness on the plate. As we move towards spring, it lightens and leans south, with olive oil stepping in and dishes becoming brighter."
That means diners should expect a series of signature year-round plates, such as fruits de mer, soupe à l'oignon and steak au poivre with frites. Yet when the seasons allow, dishes like King George whiting grenobloise and confit duck leg finished with gastrique will bring new elements to the menu. For drinks, France is the focus as you'd expect, featuring an expansive wine list of at least 800 bottles with a strong emphasis on champagne.
Likewise, the new-look Ananas' design is carefully considered. Perched above Hunter St's Lebanese-inspired Sahtein, the interior will evoke the restaurant of old. Layered in harmonious and contrasting materials, two-toned Bentwood chairs sit alongside comfy banquettes, while marble and timber tables are dressed in paper or cloth. Meanwhile, a communal high-top harkens back to the original restaurant, while indoor plants and golden pineapple lamps will once more punctuate the space.
"Ananas was a concept I believed in," says Hunter St Hospitality CEO Frank Tucker. "It was ambitious and had a clear point of view, but the original space was simply too large to operate comfortably. We've been looking for the right environment to bring it back for years. This room has the same sandstone bones and warmth, but in a footprint that allows it to function properly. We're taking what people responded to and refining the experience so it works for today."
Ananas is expected to open at 18a Argyle Street, The Rocks, on Thursday, May 7, serving lunch and dinner daily. Head to the website for more information.
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Images: Steven Woodburn.