Overview
Lobo Plantation's Jared Merlino has had quite the week. On top of opening Kittyhawk with his fellow Plantationers, he's also launched Big Poppa's, a 134-capacity Italian bar-restaurant on Oxford Street. This new joint's three focuses? Cheese, wine and hip hop.
A collaboration with Lewis Jaffrey (ex-operations manager at The Baxter Inn, Frankie's and Shady Pines), Big Poppa's occupies Hello Sailor's former digs. "We gutted and re-did the space, to make it warmer and more inviting," Merlino says. "Upstairs is a beautiful Italian restaurant, with blue leather banquettes, high stools and exposed brick work." Downstairs, you'll find a cocktail bar and lounge. Think dark wood, booths, moody lighting and a mosaic of the legendary Biggie Smalls.
Heading the kitchen are Liam O'Driscoll and Jase Barron, who've worked side by side for close to 16 years, including stints at Pendolino and Glebe Street Diner. "The emphasis is on good, simple, delicious food," Merlino says. "The hero is cheese, for which we've had a 1.8 metre-high fridge custom-built. Between 15 and 25 different cheese are available at a time and the list is on constant rotation." You can expect local, Italian and French products, sourced through local suppliers.
At least half the dishes on the menu are based on cheese. Key players include lamb shoulder ragu, with house-made pappardelle and three types of shaved cheese; and Roman gnocchi with beef cheek, served with polenta cake and smother in cheese. "It's perfect for winter," Merlino says.
Behind the bar, you'll find around 200 wines, sourced mostly from Italy, as well as France, New Zealand and Australia. The cocktail list features classics, like Negronis and Americanos, in addition to a few signature creations. And, most importantly you're welcome to drink – lockout-free – until 3am. The kitchen is open until then, too.
Big Poppa's is at 96 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst. It's open daily from 5pm-3am.
Images: Big Poppa's.