A Day Tripper's Guide to Thirroul

Snuggled between the dramatic Illawarra escarpment and the mighty Pacific Ocean, Thirroul is blissfully trapped. Where so many Aussie coastal villages must fight relentlessly against development, geography stops the sprawl in this tiny town. It lies just 70 kilometres south of Sydney and 13 kilometres north of Wollongong, but, with its vast beach and wild bush lands, feels more like a remote retreat than a satellite suburb.

That's why D.H. Lawrence's images still hold true, though he came up with them 93 years ago. In 1922, he lived in Thirroul for ten weeks, writing his novel Kangaroo, in which he describes the "long green rollers" and "huge rhythmic Pacific" and rockpools, "full of brilliantly clear water and delicately-coloured shells and tiny, crimson anemones."

What has changed is the number of human-made adventures to be had — from ocean pools and cycle paths to antique shops and cosy cafes. Here's your guide to day tripping Thirroul. Avoid tomato-fication by taking your sunnies, hat and sunscreen with you, Australia's UV rays will sneak up on you.

SEE AND DO

Sydney's beachgoers have been visiting Thirroul's one-kilometre strip of golden sand since the late 1880s. In 1909, 2000 people rocked up to cheer on the South Coast's first ever surf carnival. These days, the waves are still cracking, rolling in at 1-1.5 metres on most days. To show 'em what you're made of, hire a surf board at Illawarra Surf Academy for 30 bucks a day or enrol in surfing lessons, which cater to everyone, from beginners to semi-pros. Pack your rashie or rent a wetsuit, also available at the Academy.

Swimmers can take a dip between the flags under the experienced eye of the Thirroul Surf Life Saving Club. Having saved lives since 1908, it's one of New South Wales's oldest SLSCs outside of Sydney. Alternatively, bob about in the free-to-enter, Olympic-sized ocean pool, carved into the rocks in the 1930s.

Behind the beach, a huge, grassy park provides oodles of space for picnicking, throwing a Frisbee or kicking back in the shade. If you're keen to get active, whack on some sunscreen, grab a bike and take on the southbound cycle way, which hugs the waterfront pretty much all the way to Wollongong. The Council is hatching ambitious plans to extend the path south to Lake Illawarra and north to the southern edge of the Royal National Park. In the meantime, you can explore by car, travelling along the Grand Pacific Drive, which takes in the string of villages and epic scenery between Thirroul and Stanwell Park.

If a more sedate adventure is on your agenda, wander a few hundred metres to reach the independent shops and cafes that make up Thirroul village. For a satisfying second-hand rummage, there's Retrowombat Recycle and Reuse Foundation (228 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; (02) 4267 1322) and, for interior design, visit Nest Emporium (287 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; (02) 4267 2122) and No Chintz (243 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; (02) 4268 4962). Get arty at part-studio, part-gallery and part-record store Black Gold (shop 2/269 Lawrence Hargrave Drive, above Finbox; [email protected]), Egg & Dart (shop 2/1-3 Raymond Road; (02) 4268 3885) and Martin Place Gallery (345 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; (02) 4268 0666).

You'll find D.H. Lawrence's one-time home, a red brick cottage named Wyewurk, at 3 Craig Street. However, it's now privately owned, so there's no going inside. What you can do is contemplate the views that inspired him in the mini-park at the end of the street, D.H. Lawrence Reserve.

Lawrence's powerful depictions of Thirroul have since motivated other creative geniuses to visit. In the early '70s, Whiteley and painter Garry Shead briefly popped into Wyewurk and, on the verandah of the house next door, painted a diptych, Lawrence, Wyewurk and Thirroul (1975). 17 years later, Whiteley, aged 53, tragically died of a heroin overdose in Room Four of the Thirroul Beach Motel (then known as the Oral Eagle).

EAT AND DRINK

For a town of just 5620 people, Thirroul is home to a surprisingly large number of quality cafes. Campos addicts will find their fix at Honest Don's (2a McCauley St; (02) 4268 1881), which also does a mean iced rooibos tea with lemongrass and ginger, and a spectacular bacon and egg roll (just 10 bucks with coffee). Day tripping with your doggy companion? Treat him/her to Don's puppycino: frothy milk and liver treats f0r $4, $1 of which goes to Wollongong Animal Rescue.

More premium coffee is brewing at Gidget's Café (Shop 303/303-307 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; 0400 226 148). The fresh, creative breakfast and lunch menu changes frequently, reflecting seasonal availability of produce. Examples of spring deliciousness include savoury French toast with bacon, sautéed mushrooms, zucchini spaghetti and spiced relish ($17); smoked salmon with kale poached eggs, avocado creme and noodle cake ($19); and pulled pork damper with fennel and radish mustard slaw and caramelised apple rings ($17).

Should a good session in the surf leave you hankering for old-school fish and chips, make a beeline for Bergies Fish Café (216 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; (02) 4268 6008). It's owned by Fishing Addiction's Mark Berg, whose grandfather opened one of Holland's first fish shops in the 1940s. All the seafood comes from Aussie or Kiwi waters, and for less fishy types, there are burgers and wraps and fajitas. Take your spoils back to the beach or hang out in the garden. In October, Bergies opened its own bar, with a menu offering summery cocktails like the lemon and lime breeze with vodka and fresh mint ($10).

To get a bit posh with some fine dining, make a reservation at Samuels, where one dessert option is a box of chocolate cigars, accompanied by an edible ashtray. There's also The Postmans Quarter (258 Lawrence Hargrave Drive; (02) 4268 5546), housed in Thirroul's former post office. It opened in September 2014 after a classic 1900s-inspired reno, complete with burgundy drapes, chevron oak parquetry flooring and pendant lighting.

GETTING THERE AND AWAY

Thirroul is an hour and fifteen minutes' drive south of Sydney CBD. Turn off the Princes Highway at Waterfall to arrive via the aforementioned Grand Pacific Drive or exit just after the Southern Gateway Centre and travel down the Bulli Pass.

Alternatively, trains run directly from Central Station, taking about an hour-and-a-half.

Images: Black Gold Records, Vanessa Pike-Russell (Flickr), Honest Don's, Bergie's Fish Cafe, Rod Kashubin (Flickr).