Ex-est. Chef to Lead New 1920s-Inspired CBD Bistro, Mode Kitchen & Bar

Although saying goodbye to Pei Modern's ricotta dumplings and cracking Chardonnay selection has been one of the toughest calls of 2017, we do, at last, have a replacement. From mid-July, Francesco Mannelli (ex-est., Balla, and Uccello) will be settling into the space on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel as head chef of Mode Kitchen & Bar.

Like Pei Modern, the restaurant will fall somewhere between bistro and fine dining. On the menu are simple dishes based on Mannelli's favourite produce, such as swordfish with citrus, pistachio and radicchio, risotto with fresh Tasmanian truffle and mushrooms, and oven-baked whole perch with fennel, orange and black olive salad. Match your choice with a pick from the 200-strong wine list or go for a cocktail, like the Hemmingway Daiquiri or Rhubarb Fizz.

ACME designer Luchetti Krelle — who is also behind the fit-outs for Bar Brosé, Banksii, The Butler and Barrio Cellar — has taken care of the interior for the 200-seater with a glamorous, 1920s art deco-inspired revamp. Expect splashes of velvet, dashes of brass, marble and leather, as well as a variety of seating options, including bar stools, lounges, banquettes and semi-private spaces. What's more, the entire restaurant is now encircled by fluted glass, giving it an intimate feel and separating it from the hotel foyer.

Mode Kitchen & Bar will open on the ground floor of the Four Seasons, 199 George Street, Sydney on Thursday, July 20. It will be open lunch and dinner seven days a week. For more info, visit modekitchenandbar.com.au.