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Overview
As far as food preservation methods go, smoking might just be the tastiest. It's one of the oldest ways of keeping food edible for long amounts of time, but nowadays, its popularity probably has more to do with how tasty the results are. "You can't really recreate it, that extra flavour you get from the wood and the charcoal," says Jose Lagos, head chef at The Erko, "you can't get that any other way."
In case you haven't noticed, smoking has become something of a trend for all kinds of food — and even drink. Take for example the Wild Turkey Kentucky Firebird cocktail that smoked things up at the Annandale Hotel last month. Obviously, smoking stuff now applies to more than just meats. So, how can you bring this trend home and start smoking things in your own kitchen? We caught up with Jose, as well as Jaimee Edwards from Cornersmith and Eli Challenger of Challenger Smallgoods (who both teach Cornersmith workshops on home smoking) to chat about the best ways to start smoking your own food and drink at home.
From meats to vegetables, drinks to dairy to desserts, everything's up for grabs when it comes to home smoking, provided you get it right. "Fuel, temperature and time," Eli says. "Manage those three variables and you're good."
MEATS
There is a slew of methods to smoking at home, but arguably the easiest — also the method taught by Cornersmith in their workshops — is wok smoking. Rather than splashing out on a full-on smoker, look to your wok to get things smoking. It's as simple as lining the bottom of a wok with tin foil, heating up your fuel (wood or charcoal) in the foil until it smokes, and sticking your meat on a rack above. Cover the whole deal with more foil, and you've got a smoker you can stick right on your stovetop.
Consistency and the right product are key to smoking meat at home. Also, fat content is essential to getting the whole spectrum of flavours into smoked meats, as some of the compounds in the smoke will only be absorbed by fat. "In any smoke that comes off the wood," Eli says, "you're going to have some compounds in the smoke that are fat-soluble and some that are water-soluble." According to Eli, picking a cut with a bit of fat and a bit of lean is essential to getting the right result. "That's why you'll often find when people do barbecue for example, they use fattier cuts like brisket and shoulder, because they have a good mix of fat and lean, so you get a really complex depth of smoked flavour in there."
VEGGIES
While smoking revolves primarily around meats, bear in mind that you can smoke pretty much anything if you're brave enough. Smoking is not a process reserved just for brisket and pork, explains Jaimee Edwards, workshop coordinator and fermenter at Cornersmith. "It's used in so many different cuisines, and non-animal products really take up the smoke flavour really well."
Smokey veg is absolutely delicious, but getting vegetables in prime smokey form can be a little trickier since they don't have much fat content and the fat-soluble smoke flavours can't squeeze their way into the flavour profile. With that being the case, it's essential to add a little fat to your raw ingredients. Oils are a great source of fat for smoking vegetables. Something like a good sesame oil is ideal, which allows the smoke to form a flavour profile, all while adding its own nutty taste to the end product. You should also note that veg smokes excellently on a stovetop wok smoker, given the versatility and ease of the homemade apparatus. "You can do everything," Jaimee says, "from tofu to nuts, to pieces of meat, seafood and vegetables."
COCKTAILS
Although for food, that smokey taste is a happy by-product of a technique originally developed to preserve food, when it comes to smoking a beverage, the whole process simply boils down to getting those smokey flavours into a drink — there ain't nothing functional about it.
There are many ways to make this happen, whether it's by using a smoking gun to inject hot smoke into an old fashioned, using smoked water to make ice for the drink, or by simply burning a cinnamon stick inside a glass. Whatever your method, the result is delicious, especially with whisky and bourbon. That's why the Wild Turkey Kentucky Firebird cocktail works so well. The cocktail combines the sweetness of bourbon, with the bitterness of Cinzano Rosso and a citrus kick from Grand Marnier, taking it all to another level with American oak chips smoked to order for each cocktail. "You can't go wrong with that," Eli says about smoking drinks. "I mean, you're just adding more depth and complexity to it."
CHEESE
Welcome to the advanced class. Smoking things requires well, smoke, thus requiring heat, so something that melts when heat is applied makes the process a bit more complex. While smoked cheeses are incredible, they require a more complicated cold smoking method, where the smoke is kept between 20 and 30 degrees. Maintaining this kind of temperature at home can be a bit tricky, but if you can pull it off, the rewards are plentiful.
Since cheese is already packed with its own individual flavours, you don't have to go to town with the smoker to get great results. "You don't want [the cheese] to be too flavoursome," Jaimee says. "Unlike meat, where the flavours are all really robust, with cheeses and butters, it's a bit more delicate." Rather than smoking for hours on end like you might do for a cut of brisket, use a lighter touch to smoke your dairy. Once you get it right, it's totally worth it. "Man, when you get a smoked brie, or a smoked butter, or a smoked olive oil…" Eli says, "it's awesome."
DESSERTS
Speaking of smoking dairy, when it comes to smoked desserts, Jaimee explains how most are generally dairy based, which is the part that needs gentle smoking. Desserts tend to have the same qualities as cheese — see high melt factor — so you can't directly apply them to heat and expect great results. As such, getting smoke into your desserts also requires a cold smoke.
If that doesn't tickle your fancy, however, there are other ways to get that smokey goodness into your sweet treats. Jose simplifies the process by suggesting smoking the smaller elements of a dessert, which can then be added to the bigger dish. For example, nuts have a high-fat content so they smoke well and can be managed on your home wok smoker. Take some macadamias, smoke 'em good, then bake them into a brownie — you get all the rich, sweetness of the brownie delightfully paired with pockets of smokey flavour. There are plenty of ways to get excellent smokey goodness into your desserts, and finding out those combinations is the best part of the game.
Overall, smoking is all about trial and error. "Keep playing and keep experimenting," explains Eli. "That's the fun of barbecue."
If you missed out on the Wild Turkey Kentucky Firebird smoked cocktail at the Annandale Hotel, head here to find recipes to make it yourself at home.