Mark Best’s Pei Modern to Open in Sydney

By the end of the year, George Street won’t be quite so far from the wild as it currently seems to be (the natural wild, that is; not the post-10pm on a Saturday night kind). Top-notch chef Mark Best (of Marque, Surry Hills) is bringing Sydney dining back to nature with the opening of a second incarnation of his lauded Melbourne bistro Pei Modern.

Set to occupy the ground of the Four Seasons Hotel from October 15, the restaurant will specialise in what Best, in his customary whimsical fashion, has dubbed 'primal modern'. In other words, committed to locally-sourced, high quality seasonal produce and wines that ooze regionality.

"I'm incredibly excited to open Pei Modern in an iconic location of my beautiful home town," Best says. "Pei Modern Sydney will respond to the local environment, location, customer and produce. I'm excited to get into this amazing kitchen and cook from the wood fired grill and oven."

The concept’s inspiration lies in the principles of French bistronomie — a combination of bistro and gastronomy, which is all the rage in Paris right now. Celebrated chefs (on top of running their Michelin-starred restaurants) transplant some of their best dishes to a smaller, simpler location, where the vibe and the price tag are much humbler but the food is no less exorbitantly tasty.

Since opening in Melbourne in 2012, the original Pei Modern has been attracting excellent reviews;  in 2013 the eatery won The Age Best New Restaurant Award. Best is bringing his prize-winning team with him to Sydney, including chef Matt Germanchis, who’ll be permanently relocating, and maître d’ Ainslie Lubbock, who’ll get the service wheels turning before heading home. A few signature dishes will make the trip, too, beginning with that sauternes custard and Jerusalem artichoke with duck egg and truffle.

Before their arrival, architect Helen Rice will be taking care of the interior transformation. In 2012, the space became home to The Woods, the brainchild of Hamish Ingham (of Bar H, Surry Hills), but his partnership with Four Seasons lasted only twelve months.

Pei Modern Sydney will open for lunch, Monday to Friday, with both sit-down and 'Eat.Pei.Quick' (that’s two courses plus coffee, served express for $35) options on offer. Dinner will be served Monday to Saturday.