Overview
Nahji Chu has had a tumultuous few years. In the last few years, we've seen her restaurant chain Misschu go into administration, get pulled out of administration and then, last year, it ceased to exist in New South Wales (still alive and kicking in Victoria) when it was last year taken over by restaurateur Aki Kotzamichalis to become Saigon Lane. But now Chu is back on the Sydney dining scene. And her first project for 2017 is a 285-seater yum cha restaurant in Bondi Junction. Set to open on Tuesday, May 9 above East Leagues, Cha Li Boi will be bringing you Pacman dumplings, Phoenix Claws, Man Buns and loads more new takes on traditional Chinese dishes.
If you ever visited the Oriental Jewel, the eatery that used to occupy the Bronte Road space, you're in for a surprise. "I told the builders, go in and gut it — take out everything," Chu says. "What I love about yum cha — and the authentic ones in Hong Kong do it really well — is that they look like empty warehouse spaces that restaurateurs have occupied."
The builders did as asked and, consequently, Cha Li Boi is all exposed concrete and stripped back wooden seating. It's stark and modern, but warm and peaceful, she says.
Chu enlisted John Leong (ex-Billy Kwong) as head chef to develop the menu. You can also expect classic dumplings, such as steamed pork bao, and more creative ones — the Ling My Bell dumplings, for example, look like gold fish, complete with orange tails. The Pac-Man dumplings look like their namesake, but with a variety of ingredients inside, including scallop and scampi, tempura eggplant with avocado and duck a l'Orange. The Claw Feet and the Man Buns? Well, they translate to chicken feet and vegan tempura okra sliders, respectively.
Among her favourite dishes is The Godfather — a Sicilian garfish with a "cape" of Cheung fun rice sheets — and its vegan counterpart, The Godmother, which is packed with baby bamboo shoots, snow peas, oyster and mushrooms and native greens. Most produce comes from Martin Boetz's Cooks Co-op on the Hawkesbury, and John Susman is sourcing seafood, whom Nahji describes as "the ultimate fishmonger".
Sommelier Paula Scholes (aka Miss Pearls) is in charge of the wine list. Her focus is boutique drops, created by small, independent producers. Examples include a Fritz Hasselback Reisling from Germany and Whispering Angel Rose from France, as well as William Downie Pinot and Prophet's Rock Pinot Gris, both from Victoria. Teetotallers can get stuck into bubble tea cocktails, fruit cups and organic teas, served up by the Car Bar. Feeling frisky? Try the vodka jelly shots.
Cha Li Boi will open upstairs at 9-13 Bronte Road, Bondi Junction on Tuesday, May 9. It will be open Monday to Wednesday 11am-10pm, Thursday to Saturday 11am-11pm, and Sunday 11am-9pm.For more info, visit chaliboi.com.au.
Images: I-Manifest.