Izy Is the New Izakaya with Natural Wines Hidden in the Eastern Suburbs
It's serving up non-traditional Japanese food out the back of a poke place.
There's an unassuming poke shop sitting on Queen Street in Woollahra. Behind the charred wood wall at its back — actually a sliding door — you'll find Izy, the eastern suburbs' new modern izakaya.
Previously home to Japanese eatery Kenny Rens, the space has been given a makeover, and the food and drinks list reinvented by chef Jack New (Icebergs, Sokyo), bartender Atlanta Pahulu (Ramblin' Rascal Tavern) and front-of-house powerhouse Sebastien Dallee, who previously co-owned The Nine in Bondi.
While most dishes on the menu are cooked on a large robata grill — stretching along the length of the open kitchen and bar — they're anything but traditional. New is known for his fusion cooking, previously pairing Scandinavian techniques and Japanese ingredients at the now-closed Edition, and he's implemented it here, too.
Japanese ingredients are featured throughout the menu — with nori, koji and miso making regular appearances — and they're often paired with Italian flavours and dishes. Burrata ($20) is served with sake-glazed grape, charred on the robata, and should be ordered with a thick slab of 'garlic bread' ($6.50) topped with vibrant spread of smoked garlic and garlic chives; and koji-fried quail ($18) pairs well with a side of brussels sprouts ($10) tossed in house-made XO.
As is the case at most izakayas, the food here is meant to facilitate drinking, so most dishes are salt- and chilli-heavy and easy to eat with your hands — a standout being the Hawaiian skewers ($14), made from cubes of pineapple and chestnut-fed pork cooked on the grill and topped with kewpie.
Sakes and accessible naturals lead the drinks lineup (the particularly peachy La Violetta pét-nat goes down a treat) but are backed up by Japanese whiskeys, craft beers and, surprisingly, punch. Served in sharing bowls — portioned for two-to-three people, or one, very thirsty, customer — the punch rotates often, including options such as white wine and rum with mandarin and clove syrup.
Izy, like most good Sydney restaurants these days, uses local produce and has a focus on sustainability, purchasing meats from Victor Churchill and seafood from Costis — both located stone throws' away on Queen Street. The menu also adapts to absorb leftover ingredients from the poké shop out front and a regular wastage user is the Salmon vs Salmon ($16), a build-your-own taco made using dehydrated salmon skins cooked in squid ink.
Sydney has no shortage of bars serving up natty wines and next-level bar snacks, but this one — with its moody, fiery dining room, inventive eats and dangerously quaffable pét-nats — is worth hunting down.
Izy is now open at 146 Queen Street, Woollahra from 5–10pm every day except Monday.
Images: Nick Diomis.
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