Izy Is the New Izakaya with Natural Wines Hidden in the Eastern Suburbs

There's an unassuming poke shop sitting on Queen Street in Woollahra. Behind the charred wood wall at its back — actually a sliding door — you'll find Izy, the eastern suburbs' new modern izakaya.

Previously home to Japanese eatery Kenny Rens, the space has been given a makeover, and the food and drinks list reinvented by chef Jack New (Icebergs, Sokyo), bartender Atlanta Pahulu (Ramblin' Rascal Tavern) and front-of-house powerhouse Sebastien Dallee, who previously co-owned The Nine in Bondi.

While most dishes on the menu are cooked on a large robata grill — stretching along the length of the open kitchen and bar — they're anything but traditional. New is known for his fusion cooking, previously pairing Scandinavian techniques and Japanese ingredients at the now-closed Edition, and he's implemented it here, too.

Japanese ingredients are featured throughout the menu — with nori, koji and miso making regular appearances — and they're often paired with Italian flavours and dishes. Burrata ($20) is served with sake-glazed grape, charred on the robata, and should be ordered with a thick slab of 'garlic bread' ($6.50) topped with vibrant spread of smoked garlic and garlic chives; and koji-fried quail ($18) pairs well with a side of brussels sprouts ($10) tossed in house-made XO.

As is the case at most izakayas, the food here is meant to facilitate drinking, so most dishes are salt- and chilli-heavy and easy to eat with your hands — a standout being the Hawaiian skewers ($14), made from cubes of pineapple and chestnut-fed pork cooked on the grill and topped with kewpie.

Sakes and accessible naturals lead the drinks lineup (the particularly peachy La Violetta pét-nat goes down a treat) but are backed up by Japanese whiskeys, craft beers and, surprisingly, punch. Served in sharing bowls — portioned for two-to-three people, or one, very thirsty, customer — the punch rotates often, including options such as white wine and rum with mandarin and clove syrup.

Izy, like most good Sydney restaurants these days, uses local produce and has a focus on sustainability, purchasing meats from Victor Churchill and seafood from Costis — both located stone throws' away on Queen Street. The menu also adapts to absorb leftover ingredients from the poké shop out front and a regular wastage user is the Salmon vs Salmon ($16), a build-your-own taco made using dehydrated salmon skins cooked in squid ink.

Sydney has no shortage of bars serving up natty wines and next-level bar snacks, but this one — with its moody, fiery dining room, inventive eats and dangerously quaffable pét-nats — is worth hunting down.

Izy is now open at 146 Queen Street, Woollahra from 5–10pm every day except Monday. 

Images: Nick Diomis.