Overview
North Sydney continues to cement a reputation as one of Sydney's most up-and-coming dining destinations with a flurry of recent openings — most notably a four-in-one mega venue on Walker Street — giving the city's gourmands much to salivate over. The latest addition to the locale's culinary creds is a cosy modern Italian from a team of hatted restaurateurs, and with a surprising facade to boot.
Take a stroll down Miller Street and you could be forgiven for assuming the handsome heritage-listed craftsman-style mansion on the McLaren Street junction is just another private home. Once you cross the threshold, however, the monochromatic deco-inspired dining space tells an altogether different story of refined yet relaxed hospitality.
Created by the team behind the multi-award-winning fine-diner Entrata in Glenhaven, Antica is breathing new life into the historic 115-year-old Montrose House, which has sat disused for four years. Following nine lauded years as Head Chef of Entrata, Executive Chef Jomel Santos, formerly of the Shangri-La Hotel in both the Philippines and Singapore, has expanded his remit to also oversee the kitchen in North Sydney.
Antica's considered menu showcases simple yet elegant Italian fare, summoning classic flavours presented with gastronomic flair. Expect rustic dishes like pork and salami ravioli and spaghetti pescatore with Queensland king prawns, blue swimmer crab and clams to be elevated with platings that are as beautiful as they are tasty.
"There is a certain craft when it comes to creating authentic Italian dishes. I like to honour tradition while embracing fresh, local Australian ingredients," Santos explains. "I am passionate about creating memorable dining moments, I love making people smile with my food. We embrace the warmth, flavours and hospitality that you would feel in a local Italian trattoria."
Given its sister restaurant's standing as a former winner of an Australia's Wine List of the Year Award, it comes as no surprise that Antica's cellar is substantial — the extensive yet approachable list features over 300 bottles spanning all regions of Italy.
Find Antica at 196 Miller Street, North Sydney, open Monday–Thursday, 12–10.30pm, Friday, 12–11.30pm and Saturday, 5.30–11.30pm. Head to the venue's website for more details.
Images: Samantha Rose