Now Open: Jonathan Barthelmess' Olympus Is Dishing Up Elevated Village-Style Greek Cuisine in Redfern
Let your mind get whisked away to the old country as you dine beneath a stunning glass oculus.
Olympus' arrival means you don't have to trek to Greece's rugged hills to experience the best of Hellenic village cuisine. Earmarked as one of Sydney's most exciting restaurant openings of the year, guests are now welcome to explore this homely dining experience where simplicity and community come first. Led by Jonathan Barthelmess, his team's credits include admired Sydney landmarks like The Apollo and Cho Cho San.
Bringing a village-style taverna to Wunderlich Lane at the meeting point of Redfern and Surry Hills, Olympus offers an ideal spot for easygoing gatherings with family and friends. Pairing modern technique with enduring flavours, head chef Ozge Kalvo (Baba's Place, Ester) has shaped a menu of elevated meat and fish dishes, including grilled sardines, king prawn saganaki and milk-fed lamb.
From an impressive kitchen adorned with a sizeable charcoal oven and a wood-fired section, Kalvo complements plentiful mains with a bevy of mezedes, such as dolmades, dips and pickled vegetables. With a focus on simplicity and ancient cooking techniques, most elements on the plate are treated with a light touch. Yet, as you'd expect from an authentic village feast, the cuisine is abundant and immaculately presented.
The wine and cocktail list is also suitably meticulous. Sommeliers Zoe Brunton and Sam Christie cast their net far to bring beloved Greek winemakers big and small to Olympus' coffers. Meanwhile, visionary bartender Matt Whiley infuses exciting creations with a sense of theatre, breaking new ground on inventions like an Ouzo Colada and the Karpouzi slushy, combining Aperol and vodka with watermelon.
With the restaurant named after Mount Olympus – the Greek gods' home and preferred feasting spot – it's easy to imagine Zeus or Aphrodite looking down with a watchful gaze from the striking oculus ceiling. This ode to the ancient amphitheatres of Greece was conceived by interior designer George Livissianis, who was tasked with capturing that age-old village atmosphere without overlooking Olympus' urban context.
It's safe to say Livissianis succeeded, with rocky ruins reflected in soft limestone and travertine textures, and a stunning 50-year-old bougainvillea standing as an enchanting focal point beneath the restaurant's glass canopy. Expansive in scale, but intimate enough that loved ones never feel far away, heading to Olympus offers a polished dining experience where tradition and modernity meet in good-natured harmony.
Find Olympus at 2 Baptist Street, Redfern, open Monday–Tuesday from 5pm–12am and Wednesday–Sunday from 12pm–12am. Head to the venue's website for more information.
