Dishing up a young, fun take on Southeast Asian fare, with an infusion of classic Aussie ingredients, Chubby Cheeks has burst onto the scene in Paddington.

Making its home within Oxford Street's former Max Brenner site, the vibrant Thai street food eatery has all the makings of a neighbourhood favourite, with all exposed brick, raw timber and bold tropical prints.

From the same minds that brought you Mona Vale's coastal café and retail space Armchair Collective, Songpol and Lyn Manoonpong, it's pitched at that coveted balance between relaxed and stylish.

The menu leans to the crafty, bringing traditional Asian flavours to life with the addition of top local produce. Big-flavoured fare includes the likes of tea-smoked duck breast on banana blossom salad, a 12-hour smoked Rangers Valley wagyu brisket with green papaya and a burnt chilli sauce, and crispy turmeric rice crêpes, stuffed with either prawns and pork, or tofu. If you're rolling with two or more people, leave decisions at the door and share your way through the $49 tasting menu.

From the central bar comes some equally gutsy cocktails — including a Thai-spiced negroni, and a bright and breezy lemongrass and lychee caprioska — a beer list mixing local craft brews with crisp Asian imports, and a largely Aussie wine lineup heroing lighter, fresher varietals.