At Darlinghurst's new Eliza Food & Wine, it's all about approachability and casual sophistication served up with a side of fun, youthful energy.

The Victoria Street venue is the work of Michelin-trained chef Jeremy Bentley, who ran Surry Hills' one-hatted fine diner The Devonshire for seven years. Here, Bentley has turned his skills to a less serious contemporary menu that's anchored by traditional techniques.

With its assembly of natural timbers, salmon pinks and teal, the space itself is a warm, inviting setting that brings the goods for all kinds of visits. And the food offering is happy to oblige, running through a lineup of expertly executed dishes that are both stylish and easy on the wallet.

You'll spy small bites like saffron prawn spring rolls ($4), salted fish brandade with taramasalata ($8), and pork crackers teamed with jamón serrano and glazed peach ($10) — ideal accompaniments if you're looking to tackle the old-world meets new-world wine curation, or a few of those signature cocktails during a post-work drop-in.

Of course, feasting is equally encouraged — you'll want to settle in for larger plates like the cold-smoked kangaroo, matched with white onion, beetroot and poppy seed ($20); the curried baby corn with chickpea and coconut ($20); or roast pork starring smoked almond cream and wilted baby gem lettuce ($35).