A blazing red neon sign is your first view of Lucy Liu, not Charlie's Angel, but one of Melbourne's most popular laneway eateries for great food and vibes in the heart of the city. Effectively sandwiched between Flinders, Russell and Collins streets, you've got no shortage of dining options in this area. You'd be kicking yourself if you passed her by. Once inside, the space is open and warm, with a design choice that never fails: an open kitchen. Time your booking or walk in at the right moment, and you could end up sitting with a view straight into it. Lucy's just turned 10, with much of the original kitchen team still a part of the family, so these veterans have every teaspoon and presentation detail locked down. What's on the menu? There's a healthy offering of bites, buns, plates both small and large and set menu banquets. A few suggestions: caramelised tofu betel leaf with pineapple and chilli or Pacific oysters with ponzu and Lucy's Sriracha to start. Follow that with a plate of kingfish sashimi with green nan jim, coconut and Thai basil (an original menu item) or fried chicken ribs with sour plum salt, lemon and kewpie. Go big with Lucy's softshell crab jianbing or a roast pork bun with house-made kimchi and sriracha mayo — or go full-feast and order another OG: drunken chicken with Shao Xing Wine and green onion dressing or a hefty slice of market fish. The banquet menus, ranging from $58pp to $78pp, give you a taste of all the hits in five or seven plates (vegan alternatives are available). The drinks menu is just as colourful and tasty to wash down all those treats. With nine specialty cocktails to choose from, plus half-strength cocktails or cocktails to share, so you're catered for whether you're planning on driving home or not. Wine comes by the glass, and Lucy has a few of her own bottles on offer, with an impressive lineup of local and imported beers and spirits to round it out.