Lee Ho Fook Sydney
Victor Liong's celebrated Melbourne restaurant has brought its refined Chinese cuisine and tea pairing menu to Castlereagh Street.
Overview
One of Melbourne's most celebrated restaurants has arrived in Sydney. Victor Liong's two-hatted Lee Ho Fook is now open at The Porter House Hotel on Castelreagh Street, marking the first Sydney dining room for the chef who helped redefine modern Chinese cuisine in Australia.
Since opening in Melbourne in 2013, Lee Ho Fook has become known for Liong's distinctive blend of classical European technique and the depth, diversity and soul of Chinese cooking. The Sydney edition carries that same spirit in a handsome setting of exposed brick, dark-stained hardwood floors and ambient neon that nods to its Melbourne roots.
Nikki To
The menu reads like a love letter to Chinese regionality, interpreted with Liong's signature restraint. Expect starters like prawn toast topped with Tasmanian sea urchin and a standout crispy eggplant with spiced red vinegar, alongside larger plates such as kung pao Skull Island prawns and Yunnan-style murray cod with chilli cumin spice, garlic and chilli oil. A grill selection turns out proteins cooked over charcoal and served with bibb lettuce, seaweed, Dongbei short-grain rice and house condiments. It's all underpinned by seasonal Australian produce and executed by Head Chef Brad Guest, whose CV includes stints with Martin Benn, Neil Perry and Clare Smyth.
The drinks program mirrors the kitchen's mix of precision and playfulness. Sommelier Louella Mathews curates an expansive wine list spanning Australian and European varietals from both emerging and established growers, while the cocktail list leans inventive, from a chilli crisp-spiked margarita to the delightful Sydney Vesper, a mix of Archie Rose vodka and gin, lemon and aniseed myrtles and Hunter Valley semillon.
Parker Blain
Two thoughtful pairing options are also available: a global wine journey with drops from the Yarra Valley to Burgundy, and a tea pairing by Arthur Tong of TeaCraft, spotlighting handcrafted brews like blood orange-infused jasmine made in-house, milky oolong from Taiwan and Japanese genmaicha, all designed to complement the menu's layered flavours.
The opening also marks a homecoming for Liong, who grew up in Sydney before making the move south — he now plans to divide his time between both cities. It's something of a family affair, too, with Liong's sister Nance Liong (ex-Momofuku Seiobo, Fred's, King Clarence) overseeing day-to-day operations as restaurant manager, bringing warmth and polish to match the food.
Buffet Digital
Top images: Nikki To.
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