Lygon Street doesn't have any shortage of Italian wine bars, but Agostino is certainly notable — if not due to its food and wine offering, then because of its history. Making its home in the strip's King and Godfree building — that recently reopened after a huge multi-year renovation and relaunch — Agostino was named in a nod to one of the area's original Italian food pioneers. It's a homage to Vincenza-born Carlo Valmorbida, the man who originally opened grocery store Frank Agostino's and whose family has owned (and continues to run) the building since 1955. The space itself boasts a rich riot of textures against clean lines, brought to life under the guidance of award-winning Melbourne architect Chris Connell. You'll spy further collaborative efforts in the commissioned collection of ceramics, featuring exclusive pieces by local artist Shari Lowndes. From the kitchen, comes a food offering that's concise, yet punchy, starring drinking fare with a clear northern Italian lean. You might find plates like grilled octopus teamed with nduja new potatoes and salsa verde; sardine beccafico with bread crumb, pine nuts and parsley; and a calamari fritti with lemon. But it's the wine program that takes centre stage, heroing a diverse spread of drops from across Australia and the homeland, including a rotation of tap wine. A solid retail selection offers bottles to enjoy in-house or at home, while the temperature controlled cellar plays host to a covetable reserve list, filled with rare labels that have been housed here for years. It's all backed by a classic-leaning cocktail lineup and a beer list offering both local brews and Italian craft labels. Drop by Agostino for an after-work drink, then finish off with a scoop of Pidapipo on the way home. Appears in: The Best Wine Bars in Melbourne for 2023
