Sahtein

Overview

The flavours and rhythm of Beirut have arrived in one of Sydney's most historic precincts. Now open in The Rocks, Sahtein has taken over the former home of The Dining Room within Argyle Street precinct The Collective, bringing the generous, familiar dishes found in homes and neighbourhood restaurants across the Lebanese capital.

The menu stays close to tradition, spanning cold and hot mezze, charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, alongside housemade breads, dips and pickles designed to remain on the table throughout. Dishes arrive as they're ready, encouraging the lively, overlapping style of dining that defines meals in Beirut.

Steven Woodburn

All produce is halal, and much of the cooking happens over wood fire and charcoal. Highlights to start include a classic kibbeh nayeh, fava bean falafel with zingy tarator and sawda djej — sautéed chicken livers with garlic and mulberry molasses. The grill gets fired up for dishes like shish lahm (date- and tamarind-glazed wagyu skewers), noss farrouj (deboned half chicken with toum and Aleppo honey) and the signature raqabat kharouf — a slow-cooked seven-spice lamb neck served with kafta-stuffed zucchini, riz bi sh'arieh (vermicelli rice), labneh and tabouleh.

Desserts also take cues from teta's kitchen, like a fragrant mhalabieh (rose and orange milk pudding topped with pistachio), sfouf b'debs (carob molasses and semolina cake with spiced tahini) and classic baklawa.

Overseeing the kitchen are Executive Chef Mike Flood (Felix, Firedoor, Quay), Head Chef Rifat Katranci (The Cut Bar & Grill, Jimmy's Falafel) and Hunter St. Hospitality Culinary Director Santiago Aristizabal, who travelled to Beirut last year to research how the city eats.

Cocktails further explore Levantine flavours — try the za'atar martini with amontillado sherry and olive oil, or the Downtown Beirut, a West Asian riff on a manhattan infused with fig, date and cherry, served tableside. A Med-heavy wine list rounds things out, alongside a considered arak selection available by the glass, carafe or bottle.

Steven Woodburn

Top images: Steven Woodburn.