Overview
It was in 2017 that Paddo Inn reopened alongside other Oxford Street greats like The Unicorn, The Paddington and The Light Brigade. The Paddo mainstay received a new lick of paint and a new lease on life. Ownership now rests in the hands of Sydney venue group Solotel, the company behind venues like North Bondi Fish, Aria and The Sheaf.
The old front bar of the Paddo Inn was renovated into a bar and casual dining spot, with a more formal eatery out the back. But we're here for the full shebang, so we head down into the lovely dining room designed by George Livissianis, who is also responsible for the redesign of The Dolphin in Surry Hills and Matt Moran's Aria. Visually, it's exactly what you want from a contemporary pub bistro — high ceilings, painted brick, wood and marble textures with a casual elegance.
The open kitchen looks fresh and well-appointed, and the menu too is instantly appealing, with a good number of dishes and interesting flavour combinations. The room is packed with upwardly mobile locals and industry folk, a crowd that gets busy even on quieter weeknights.
The food matches that contemporary design flavour with a selection of Italian dishes from Il Baretto, which operates out of the back of the venue. Starters are light in style but heavy on the seafood with the likes of insalate di polpo (octopus salad with butter beans and salsa verde) and yellowfin tuna carpaccio with broad bean dressing and sugar snap peas. The mains are straightforward, with a Caesar salad, chicken schnitzel and sirloin steak on offer — things get more diverse when you inspect the seven choices of pasta.
Shoutouts have to go to the wine list, which is compact, thoughtful and food-friendly, with a great selection of red, white, sparkling, rosé, natural and low-to-no options. And cocktails are, of course, an option, with all the classics plus signatures like the pesto smash (Hendrick's Gin, almond, lime, basil) and vanilla and fennel Cuban (Bacardi Spiced Rum, pickled fennel, lime).
Images: Byron Martin for PADDO(Collective)
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