Ladro

Overview

Pizza. It's delicious. It also has a huge spectrum of quality and authenticity. But Ladro on Fitzroy's Gertrude Street does it well. Really well. With a sleek interior, a woodfired oven or two and chefs making pasta by hand in the kitchen, pizza isn't all they do well.

Start with a salumi board, deep-fried chickpea fritters and some chargrilled prawns or dive right into the pizzas.

16 different pizza options are up for grabs at Ladro, from your classic margs and capricciosa as well as more off-piste creations like the gamberi with lemon-marinated prawns and zucchini and the breakfast calazione with buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, speck and an egg.

And then there's the pasta. Each day, the chefs roll out fresh pasta for the masses. It's a labour of love and the proof really is in the pudding — or the pappardelle. The spaghettini with vongole, cherry tomatoes and garlic is light and delicate, while the beef ragu is tender and rich. And be careful when eating the soft and pillowy saffron gnocchi — that bright yellow sauce will get everywhere.

To round off your eatables, the tiramisu served in a little jar is a must, while the Bomboloni — Italian Doughnuts served with hazelnut ice cream and rooftop honey — are decedent and addictive. But they aren't always on the menu. If they are when you visit, they're a must-order.

All in all, Ladro has a touch of Italy with a Melbourne sensibility and a commitment to quality. No complaints here.

Images: Tracey Ah-kee