Australia's Apres-Ski Scene Is Hitting New Heights

“Have you skied before?” This is the question I am asked — repeatedly — on the way to Thredbo: at reception when checking in at the Thredbo Alpine Hotel, at a five-course champagne brunch in an inflatable igloo on the ski slopes (a combination of words I never thought I'd say), while dancing and chatting to strangers during a poolside party started by French phenomenon La Folie Douce and, of course, when collecting gear and being assigned to a ski lesson on the final day of this weekend celebrating the Thredbo Top2Bottom race.

The answer is sort of, once, when I was in high school and spent a day tumbling down Friday Flats. But if you think Thredbo isn’t for you, it’s time to think again. There’s a lot more than just skiing on offer in this alpine village getaway.

ARRIVE AT THE HOTEL; DON'T LEAVE THE HOTEL

From outside, the Thredbo Alpine Hotel (Friday Drive, Thredbo Village Resort, +61 2 6459 4200) looks austere — with a grey timber exterior capped by an aggressively sloping roof. But inside, it’s warm and wood-panelled, the staff are chilled out and friendly and there is a roaring log fire in the middle of the lobby lounge. The setting is pretty spectacular too. From the hotel room window, I can see a snow-covered mountain that reflects the pink morning light, and a pristine landscape of sky and trees. The rooms are small and haven’t been refurbished since the ‘80s, but this adds a rustic charm and comfort.

The hotel breakfast is deliciously comprehensive, and the restaurant windows look out onto the slopes. Whether you’re into the bircher muesli or hash browns (or both), you can sit in your warm smugness and watch early morning skiers tear down the Supertrail at their own peril. The hotel also has an outdoor spa, an in-house massage therapist and sauna. So you basically have no reason to leave.

OPEN CHAMPAGNE THE RIGHT WAY: WITH A SWORD

On the first morning, I am whisked away to Crackenback Drive and treated by Mumm Champagne to a five-course champagne degustation with chef ambassador Josh Lopez (from Brisbane’s GOMA restaurant). The pop up restaurant is set on the snow in an inflatable igloo by the ski slopes. Mumm ambassador Chris Sheehy introduces the champagne at the beginning of each course, followed by Josh Lopez, who explains his approach to each dish. I learn how to open a bottle of champagne with a saber (the essential trick is to chill the neck of the bottle for a couple of hours to get a clean break), eat black rose caviar off the back of my hand and appreciate how truffle coated in 24 carat gold goes marvellously with a cordon rouge (that’s a type of champagne). The dessert is the highlight (or perhaps my head is rather light by this point), an architectural feat with macadamia, berries, vanilla and rose petals, matched with a light rosé. An evening champagne and caviar masterclass with Sheehy and Lopez was also available to Thredbo visitors at the Segreto Restaurant back at the Alpine Lodge Hotel.

PARTY LIKE IT'S -5ºC (IT IS)

Thredbo Alpine Hotel is known for its afternoon après-ski parties, and from 3-6pm international party-starters La Folie Douce took to the poolside stage, pumped up the beats and got the crowd going. It’s hard to explain the magic of La Folie Douce and exactly what happens up there on stage, but they charmed us with what essentially is a glorified karaoke-cross-Rihanna-inspired dance routine, hollering and grinding to a set of pumping music, encouraging the audience to follow suit. And before long, half the audience was up on stage, a squish-friendly party of ski jackets and champagne-fuelled shenanigans. And amazingly, it was finished in time for dinner.

CELEBRATE OTHER PEOPLE'S ATHLETIC VICTORIES

Upon assignment to this story I had a momentary freak-out where I thought I might have to actually ski in the 25th Anniversary Top2Bottom race — a kind of City2Surf for the slopes. Each year, a slew of skiers, snowboarders and even a select few fatbike racers (literally people riding fat bicycles down the slope) compete on Australia’s longest run (3.2km) for a $1200 prize pack. Luckily, all I had to do was hang out at the finish line by the Mumm Champagne pop-up bar and cheer them on. There were dramatic crashes, narrow finishes and plenty of champagne-popping to start the day.

ATTEMPT TO SKI, DECIDE TO INVEST IN A TOBOGGAN

The opportunity to ski came on the last morning of the trip. I quickly realised that the preparation for this sport takes more energy than the sport itself. I wore way too many layers of clothing, struggled to get my ski boots on and then walk in them (skis in tow) to the shuttle bus. But once on the magic carpet at the bottom of Friday Flats, under the friendly guidance of Albert our ski instructor, the snowplough position came rushing back to me and I went rushing down Friday Flats. It was exhilarating! But next time I think I'll invest in a toboggan.

LET'S DO THIS; GIVE ME THE DETAILS

Thredbo is open 365 days a year, though the ski season runs from the June long weekend to the October long weekend.

By air: Qantas and Virgin Australia service Canberra Airport from major Australian cities. Canberra Airport is a 2.5 hour drive from Thredbo and shuttle transfers to and from the airport can be arranged. Several major car hire companies also hire from Canberra.

By bus: Greyhound Australia run daily services from Canberra and Sydney, Murrays run daily services from Canberra during July and August and other service operators also offer transport and packages.

By car: Thredbo is approximately 500km, or 6 hours' drive, from both Sydney and Melbourne. If you’re cruising to the mountains from Sydney, once you’re on the Eastern Distributor there are only a few sets of traffic lights to Thredbo. From Melbourne, the fully sealed Kosciuszko Alpine Way is your scenic window as you wind through the spectacular Kosciuszko National Park. The National Parks and Wildlife Service collect park use fees upon entry to the park. You can purchase your pass from the Entrance Station 13km before you get to Thredbo, the Snowy Region Visitors Centre in Jindabyne, the National Parks Visitors Centre in Khancoban, or the Thredbo Information Centre. Check out some tips for safe snow driving before you leave home.

Roslyn travelled to Thredbo as a guest of Mumm champagne.