If you know anything about the Hotel Rose Bay, it's probably the pub's obsession with miniature trains — up until recently, it sported a model that would skirt around the venue every hour. But an extensive renovation and a few million dollars later, and the 90-year-old pub will choo-choo no more. It has reopened as a sleek new eastern suburbs venue.

The heritage facade had been kept, but inside the space has undergone some serious work by Richards Stanisich Interiors, who raised ceilings, added more windows and doubled the interior space. It's now brighter and more airy and befits the venue's harbourside location. Rose gold finishes, terrazzo tiling and Australian spotted gum furnishings, along with an emerald granite bar, have replaced the pub's train track.

As a result, there are now three distinct spaces on offer: the main bar and lounge with a cocktail list and share plates, the sports bar, and the 70-seat restaurant. The latter is helmed by ex-Flying Fish and Catalina executive chef Ian Royle, who's bringing his fine-dining background to pub grub. Sure, you'll find the usual fish and chips, cheeseburgers and steaks, but also a barramundi fillet with cauliflower and tamarind butter ($29.50) and soy spare ribs served with sriracha mayo ($29).

Having first opened its doors back in 1929, Hotel Rose Bay is also one of the few independent pubs around town — it's been owned and operated by the Auswild family from Bellevue Hill for over 20 years now.

Food images: Oliver Minnett.